Objectives With increasing awareness of the potential adverse impact of conventional surfactants on the environment and human health, there is mounting interest in the development of bio-based surfactants (which are deemed to be safer, more affordable, are in abundance, are biodegradable, biocompatible and possess scalability, mildness and performance in formulation) in personal care products. Method A comprehensive literature review around alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) and sucrose esters (SEs) as bio-based surfactants, through the lens of the 12 green chemistry principles was conducted. An overview of the use of bio-based surfactants in personal care products was also provided. Results Bio-based surfactants are derived primarily from natural sources (i.e. both the head and tail molecular group). One of the more common types of bio-based surfactants are those with carbohydrate head groups, where alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) and sucrose esters (SEs) lead this sub-category. As global regulations and user mandate for sustainability and safety increase, evidence to further support these bio-based surfactants as alternatives to their petrochemical counterparts is advantageous. Use of the green chemistry framework is a suitable way to do this. While many of the discussed principles are enforced industrially, others have only yet been applied at a laboratory scale or are not apparent in literature. Conclusion Many of the principles of green chemistry are currently used in the synthesis of APGs and SEs. These and other bio-based surfactants should, therefore, be considered suitable and sustainable alternatives to conventional surfactants. To further encourage the use of these novel surfactants, industry must make an effort to implement and improve the use of the remaining principles at a commercial level. Graphical abstract
Urban pollution is one of the main problems encountered worldwide with major impact on public health as well as the environment. Health impact of urban pollution is not limited to respiratory conditions but also encompasses major skin problems including irritation, skin ageing, and skin cancer. Toxic gases and particulate matter are the main pollutants and exhibit extensive local variability. The aforementioned pollutants are small particles that attach to the skin or penetrate into it, enhancing free radicals’ production inside the inner skin layers. This urges the need to propose cosmetic products that help prevent and/or minimise pollutants’ effects on the skin whether irritation, ageing and cancer. Furthermore, intrinsic and extrinsic factors contributed to skin irritation and ageing. Intrinsic factors are within skin factors and include genetic and physiological characteristics of individuals. Moreover, extrinsic factors comprise environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, and smoke. Subsequently active ingredients with antipollutant properties addressed the intrinsic and extrinsic factors by four mechanisms being: free radical neutralisation, film-forming ability, skin barrier enhancement and fortification. Such ingredients include vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C derivatives, carbohydrates, and plant-based products. Yet, very limited studies have evaluated the effectiveness of the aforementioned active ingredients against irritation or ageing and this should be considered in future work.
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