Clove essential oil (CEO) is known for having excellent antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, but the poor stability of its components to light and temperature compromise this activity. The aim of this study is to evaluate the textural, antioxidant, antimicrobial and microstructural properties of matrixes produced with representative natural waxes and CEO. Thus, waxy emulsifiers, such as beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and ozokerite wax, were employed to create such matrixes. The thermal, microstructural, textural, wetting, antioxidant, antimicrobial and infrared characteristics of the matrixes were then studied. The diverse chemical composition (long-chain wax esters in carnauba wax and short-chain fatty acids and hydrocarbons in beeswax and ozokerite wax, respectively) explained the differences in wetting, texture, melting, and crystallization characteristics. Crystal forms of these matrix systems varied from grainy, oval, to needle-like shape, but keeping an orthorhombic allomorph. The alignment and reorganization of beeswax and ozokerite wax into needle-like crystals increased the matrix strength and adhesion force compared to those of carnauba and candelilla matrixes, which showed weak strength and grainy morphology. The former two waxes and their matrixes also showed the largest plasticity. These lipidic matrixes show potential use for topical applications having acceptable antioxidant and textural properties.

Lemon essential oil (LEO) is known for having excellent antioxidant properties with applications in the pharmaceutical, food and cosmetic sectors. However, its deficient stability to light and temperature compromise this activity. In this study, waxy emulsifiers, such as beewax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, and ozokerite wax, were employed in order to create lipidic matrixes with LEO as a continuous phase by heating to 80 °C under homogenization, followed by rapid cooling to 25 °C. The thermal, microstructural, rheological, and antioxidant tests were then conducted on such matrixes. The difference in melting, crystallization, and gelling temperatures was explained by the diverse chemical composition (long-chain wax esters in carnauba wax having a high melting point, and short-chain fatty acids and hydrocarbons in beewax and ozokerite wax, respectively). Crystal habits of these matrix systems varied from grainy, oval, to fiber-like shape, whereas there was a prevalent orthorhombic allomorph. The alignment and reorganization of carnauba and candelilla wax crystals led to an increase in the matrix strength as compared to those of beeswax and ozokerite matrixes, which showed a weak texture and poor crystallization behavior. The last two matrix systems showed the best flow and extensibility. These lipidic matrixes showed potential use for topical applications having good oil retention capacity and better antioxidant properties as compared to the raw essential oil.

Traditionally, oil structuring has been conducted merely in vegetable oils. Alternatively, essential oil structuring provides a great opportunity to develop the topical application of these oils without causing allergic contact dermatitis and improving the sensory properties. The thermal, rheological and microstructure data collection of lipidic matrices produced with representative gelators such as carnauba wax, stearic acid, glyceryl monostearate and hydroxyethyl cellulose in lemon essential oil were carried out by DSC, rheology and phase contrast microscopy measurements. This dataset is valuable to researchers interested in characterizing lipidic matrices produced with several gelators, once incorporated in different topical formulations. These data can be used for quality control of topical formulations having several textural features.