Dyeing potential of a natural dye extracted from Quercus robur L. (fruit cups) with a combination of Salix alba L. and Populus deltoides Bartram ex marsh (wood ash) mordants was studied on wool, cotton, silk and pashmina fabrics. Experiment was carried out in different combinations including and excluding mordants by adopting different mordanting methods. Dyeing performance was assessed in terms of dye absorption (%), Colour values (CIELAB), Colour strength (K/S), and fastness properties. The dye in combination with mordants showed significant importance and resulted in different shades on wool, silk and pashmina fabrics. However, the cotton fabric did not show much affinity for the dye and mordant and showed less affinity for the dye and mordants with lower values of colour quality and retention grades. Fastness properties of all dyed fabrics recorded excellent grades with slightly lower grades in unmordanted dyed samples.

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Study was conducted to investigate the dyeing potential of Quercus robur L. (fruit cups) dye and Salix alba L. (wood extract) mordant on wool and pashmina fabrics. The experiment was conducted keeping in view the environmental safety by using unutilized plant materials and excluding the usage of chemical agents. The dyeing was carried out individually including and excluding mordant adopting different mordanting methods. The parameters like percent absorption, colour coordinates, colour strength (K/S), relative colour strength and colour fastness with regard to washing, light and rubbing were investigated. The results revealed higher percent absorption of mordanted samples than unmordanted samples. Colour coordinates (L*a*b*, Chroma, hue and ∆E) of dyed wool and pashmina fabric exhibited satisfactory results. The colour strength (K/S) and relative colour strength of pashmina fabric recorded higher than wool fabric. The fastness properties to washing, light and rubbing showed satisfactory grades including and excluding natural mordant. However, the grades of mordanted samples were found better than unmordanted samples. The dye and mordant in isolation and in combination showed beautiful colours and shades on selected fabrics with satisfactory retention properties, hence can be utilized commercially for coloration of wool and pashmina fabrics.