In order to further clarify the role of intercellular lipids in the water-retention properties of the stratum corneum, forearm skin of six healthy male volunteers was treated with 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) for 1, 10, and 30 min. All treatment periods induced chapping and scaling of the stratum corneum without any inflammatory reaction, accompanied by a significant decrease in its water-retention function. Electron-microscopic analysis of SDS-treated stratum corneum revealed selective depletion of the lipids from the intercellular spaces, accompanied by marked disruption of multiple lamellae structures. Lipid analysis also showed a considerable and selective loss of intercellular lipids such as cholesterol, cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, and sphingolipids. To evaluate the recovery potential for intercellular lipids, lipids which were separated as sebaceous-rich lipids (SLs) and stratum corneum lipids (SCLs) were applied daily on SDS-treated forearm skin. Two daily applications of the SCLs which were emulsified at 10% concentration in W/O (water in oil) cream caused a significant increase in conductance, accompanied by a definite improvement in the level of scaling over no application or W/O emulsion base only, whereas SLs in the W/O emulsion base led to no significant recovery in either conductance value or scaling. When two daily topical applications of four chromatographically separated lipid fractions (cholesterol ester, free fatty acid, cholesterol, and sphingolipid) from the SCL were carried out at 1% concentration in the same system, the cholesterol ester and sphingolipid fractions were found to induce a significant increase in the conductance value over no application.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

No abstract

In order to clarify the roles of lipids in the water-holding property of stratum corneum, the forearm skin of healthy male volunteers was treated with acetone/ether (1/1) or sodium dodecyl sulfate (5%) for 1-30 min.A prolonged treatment period of 5-30 min produced a chapped and scaly appearance of the stratum corneum without any inflammatory reactions.Under these conditions, there was a marked decrease in the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum accompanied by a selective loss of stratum corneum lipids such as cholesterol, cholesterol esters, and sphingolipids. Two daily applications of the isolated stratum corneum lipids to experimentally induced dry skins caused a significant increase of conductance r accompanied by a marked improvement in the level of scaling.Meanwhile, the isolated sebaceous lipids exhibited no significant recovery in both the conductance value and the scaling.Out of chromatographically separated fractions of the stratum corneum lipids, topical applications of ceramide fraction induced the highest increase in the conductance value.Topical applications of synthesized pseudo-ceramides also showed a significant recovery of the water-retaining properties accompanied by an improvement in the scaling only when the polar group has an amide bond in the major linkage.Analysis of the alkyl chain structures has revealed that a structural requirement for the recovery of the water retaining capacity is the presence of saturated-straight alkyl chains, not unsaturated or branched alkyl chains. These structural characteristics required for water-retaining function also paralleled their capacity to form multiconcentric lamellae vesicles in vitro which is also capable of acquiring bound water as shown by """"DSe-t'Fiermograms. The present study suggests that ceramides with relatively shorter alkyl chain length serve as a water modulator in the multi-lipid bilayers through the stratum corneum.