The dyeability of cotton fabric with turmeric extract in two concentrations (pale and dark dyeing) was studied using four diff erent mordants in low concentration (0.2 g/l). As mordants three metal salts were used as mordants (ferrous sulphate, aluminium sulphate and zinc chloride), and organic mordant tannin. The mordanting of cotton was performed before, during and after dyeing, namely by pre-, meta-, and post-mordanting application methods. Colour fastness of dyed samples to repetitive washing and hot pressing was also performed. The colour values of the dyed samples were measured on a refl ectance spectrophotometer. The results showed that the dyeability of the cotton with turmeric extract is greatly infl uenced by the used mordant and its application method. The highest dyeing uptake (dyeability) was achieved by pre-mordanting with aluminium sulphate. All the mordanted samples had improved colour fastness, especially those samples meta-mordanted with ferrous sulphate. Keywords: cotton, turmeric, curcuma, mordant, natural dyeing, dyeability Izvleček V raziskavi je bil proučevan vpliv čimžanja z uporabo štirih čimž v nizki koncentraciji (0,2 g/l) na obarvljivost bombažne tkanine z ekstraktom kurkume v dveh koncentracijah (za svetlo in temno obarvanje

Our clothes and accessories are our primary interfaces with the world around us. In the 21 st century, the technology that lives in our pockets or in our bags has changed dramatically. Today, the interactive systems that can be found almost constantly in our clothes are so close to our body that they sometimes actually feel like a part of us. Electronic devices are getting tinier and can be bought ready-made for any purpose. Power-supply solutions are smarter and wireless technologies allow communication without cables. Wearable technology is becoming widely used in healthcare, care for the elderly and wellness, in the military, in workwear and sportswear for added security or performance characteristics, in sci-fi and fantasy movies and big-arena entertainment, and in award shows or pop concerts for its spectacular visual eff ects. Through technological advances, the most innovative designers and artists re-evaluate the very basic premises of a dressed body, such as weight, scale and texture or movement. They demonstrate that design is not just about the visual: clothes can also be stimulating to touch, hearing, smell and taste. Wearable technology can turn clothing into a multi-sensorial experience and make it drift between categories. Wearable technology can be perceived as a body architecture, a second skin, nonmaterial clothing, a personal scenography or display, a body extension, an interactive or emotional garment, etc. Some of the most important examples of wearable technology were analysed in this research. They were divided into three diff erent categories according to a garment's principal technological concept or function as it relates to material and external and internal stimuli, such as movement, light, sound, touch, sight, smell, taste, biometrics and emotions. It was concluded that garments act as a bridge between visual, physical and perceptual experience, and provide the wearer and onlooker with a kinaesthetic, proxemic and haptic experience. Since the late 1990s, many projects devised within the fi eld of fashionable technology have a strong performative connotation, as they move, change shape, or emit light, sound or scents. It wasn't until the last decade, however, that Wearable technology designers really began to explore the potential of clothing as social interaction, emotional sensing and biomimetics.

In this study, the infl uence of the addition of classical pigment, phosphorescent pigment and microcapsules of thermochromic dye on the photocolouration as well as on physical-mechanical properties of cotton fabric printed with microcapsules of photochromic dye was studied. Seven printing pastes of diff erent compositions were prepared. Printing pastes were applied onto 100% cotton fabric using a fl at screen printing technique. The thickness, mass per unit area, stiff ness, tear strength and elongation, and air permeability of printed samples were measured, whilst colour and colour fastness to rubbing, washing and light were spectrophotometrically evaluated. The thickness, mass per unit area, stiff ness and tear strength and elongation of printed fabric increased, whilst air permeability decreased by at least a third in comparison with unprinted fabric. The addition of classical pigment, phosphorescent pigment or microcapsules of thermochromic dye into printing paste that already includes microcapsules of photochromic dye decreases the photocolouration of printed fabric, among which classical pigment has the smallest and microcapsules of thermochromic dye has the largest impact. Photocolouration of fabric decreases with increasing numbers of rubbing cycles; the addition of classical pigment has the smallest and the addition of microcapsules of thermochromic dye has the largest infl uence. The colour fastness to washing of printed fabric was decreased by increases in the number of washing cycles. The addition of any pigment into printing paste that already contains microcapsules of photochromic dye impairs its colour fastness to washing. By lengthening the time of exposure of printed fabric to the Xenotest apparatus, a reduction of colour fastness to light of printed fabric is produced. The addition of classical pigment, phosphorescent pigment or microcapsules of thermochromic dye into printing paste that already contains microcapsules of photochromic dye slightly slows down the reduction of colour fastness to light exposure of fabric printed with microcapsules of photochromic dye. Keywords: photocolouration, microencapsulated photochromic dye, cotton, fl at screen print Izvleček V raziskavi je proučevan vpliv dodatka klasičnega pigmenta, fosforescenčnega pigmenta in mikrokapsuliranega termokromnega barvila na fotoobarvanje in fi zikalno-mehanske lastnosti bombažne tkanine, potiskane z mikrokapsulami fotokromnega barvila. Pripravljenih je bilo sedem tiskarskih past različnih sestav. Tiskarske paste so bile nanesene na 100-odstotno bombažno tkanino s tehniko ploskega fi lmskega tiska. Potiskanim vzorcem so bili izmerjeni debelina, ploščinska masa, togost, pretržna sila in raztezek, zračna prepustnost, barva in barvne obstojnosti pri drgnjenju, pranju in na svetlobi. Slednji sta bili spektrofotometrično ovrednoteni. Potiskanim tkaninam so se povečali debelina, ploščinska masa, togost, pretržna sila in pretržni raztezek, medtem ko se je zračna prepustnost v primerjavi z nepotiskano tkanino za več kot tretjino zmanj...

Temperature and pH responsive microgel, based on poly-N-isopropylacrylamide and chitosan (PNCS) was studied, as possible carrier for antimicrobials on cotton fabric, to create smart stimuli responsive antimicrobial active textiles. Among antimicrobials 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-propyldimethyloctadecyl ammonium chloride (Si-QAC) and silver nanoparticles (AgNP) were chosen and applied to cotton fabric subsequently after the deposition of PNCS microgel. Infl uence of Si-QAC and AgNP on the swelling/deswelling activity of the PNCS microgel was obtained by temperature and pH responsiveness, along with determination of antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Even though Si-QAC slightly infl uenced swelling ability of the PNCS microgel and incorporation of AgNP reduced its amount on the surface of the fi bres, PNCS microgel proved to be a suitable carrier of antimicrobial agents, thus imparting moisture management properties with eff ective controlled release of Si-QAC and AgNP. This provided excellent antimicrobial activity against tested bacteria, triggered by the change of temperature and pH of the surroundings.

Silver nitrate (AgNO 3 ) was used as a mordant for dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes. Due to the high concentrations of catechin and tannin, green tea was used as a natural dye. The green tea extraction was performed under neutral and alkaline conditions. Four molar concentrations of AgNO 3 were used, namely 1, 5, 10 and 50 mM. Mordanting was performed during dyeing with green tea extracts. The colour (CIE L*a*b* values) and UV protection factor (UPF) of the dyed cotton samples before and after ten repetitive washings were measured spectrophotometrically. The results revealed that with the increase of the molar concentration of AgNO 3 , the samples became darker, redder and bluer. Dyeing with alkaline green tea extract was not as successful as dyeing with neutral green tea extract. Diff erent shades of cotton were achieved when dyeing with neutral green tea extract and mordanting with diff erent molar concentrations of AgNO 3 . Using 50 mM AgNO 3 achieved a very dark grey (almost black) colour. Cotton samples dyed with neutral green tea extract had excellent UV protective properties (50+), some even after washing. Keywords: dyeing, green tea, mordanting, silver nitrate, colours, UV protection. Tekstilec, 2015, letn. 58(3), str. 191-198 Izvleček Pri barvanju bombažne tkanine z naravnim barvilom je bil kot čimža uporabljen srebrov nitrat (AgNO 3 ). Kot naravno barvilo je bil uporabljen zeleni čaj, saj ima visoko vsebnost katehina in čreslovine.