There has been much recognition that body scanning can provide more data on the human body than traditional measurements alone. Nevertheless, it is not always possible to extract the many measurements that are required by existing methods of pattern construction, due to the differences in the measurements captured between manual and body scanning methods. The conventional methods that are used for drafting pattern blocks do not incorporate data pertaining to body measurements to a large extent. This can be traced back to the fact that traditional pattern drafting approaches are from a time when obtaining some measurements were difficult and certain measurements were easier to extract than others. To overcome the lack of data, post-drafting modifications are performed to accomplish an appropriate fit, and most pattern books are accompanied with detailed guidance as to how to adjust the blocks to take into consideration typical figure disparities. Body scanning technology makes it possible to acquire body configuration data that has been traditionally challenging to access. This type of technology can be employed to investigate body shapes and collate pertinent measurements. It can also be employed to delineate dimensions, something that was not previously possible. Moreover, appropriate scan data allows a challenge to existing drafting methods and the proposal of new ways of creating patterns that is based on actual measurements rather than proportional relationships. This study commences by analysing existing 2D pattern construction methods and the myriad outputs of body scanning technology to examine the extent to which body scanning can complement conventional pattern drafting approaches. Ten pattern-making techniques for bodices and trousers were assessed, and the measurements that were needed for these techniques were compared to the measurements that were generated by a body scanning system. The research established how well the measurements required for different drafting methods can be produced from 3D body scanning technology. The main contribution of this study is to highlight where measurements that are required for pattern construction be defined as outputs within body scanner systems. This would allow the body scanner to offer more suitable measurement support for pattern drafting methods.

This paper will discuss the enhancement of trouser pattern construction through the utilisation of 3D body scanning. It will discuss the lower body shapes-pattern-garment relationship. It will focus on the curves that are required to suitably develop trousers from 3D body scans. It is acknowledged that 3D Body scanning offers more anthropometric data on the body than had been previously possible to collect from traditional methods of measurement. However, there exist differences between these two methods of measurement[1] and limitations within the existing 3D body scanning process at certain locations of the body; namely the armhole curve , the armscye, the bust, the neck curve and the crotch.[2]. This research began with eighteen methods of pattern cutting for trousers [3]-[18], the measurements were taken from a 3D body scanner in order to draft the pattern using Lectra. The data outputs from this were then entered into Excel for analysis and comparison and to see if there were any inconsistencies for ease or arc definition for different morphologies. It was noticed that during the pattern making process traditional linear Euclidian methods of measurement were used, whereas the body is shaped with curves, convex or concave, and these seem not to be given their importance in the pattern construction process within a 3D environment. This necessitated an investigation into a new approach using hybrid calculations using Euclidian and non-Euclidian geometry to incorporate and calculate the curves in 3D. The increased adoption of technology and environmental issues caused by fast fashion have propelled the concept of mass customisation to the fore. Greater precision in 3D scan data which relates directly to the lower body shape has huge implications for customer satisfaction and the garment manufacturing industry.