Draping can be defined as a phenomenon of crease-forming when the fabric is put under pressure of its own mass, but without the influence of external forces. The drape ability of the material has a direct influence on the appearance and functionality of the garment. Recent findings in this field indicate that researchers have mostly been defining the phenomenon of draping on the basis of the mechanical characteristics of textiles. This paper presents the method that aims to predict the draping parameters, where drape is defined in dependence of the structure and construction parameters of the woven fabric. A particular attention is focused on connecting the drape coefficient with the fabric weight and relative density of the fabric. Relative density is defined by the structure and construction parameters of the fabric such as: yarn count (tex), fiber density (g•cm-3), the coefficient (factor) of fiber packing in the yarn, the weave repeat, the number of effect-changes in the repeat, the position of intersection points in the weave repeat and the flexibility coefficient of yarns.
Wear resistance, as one of typical characteristics, is used for evaluating the durability of textile materials in use and their suitability for the intended purpose. In this paper the results of the Martindale method of wear of fabric intended for making protective and work clothing are presented. The fabric wear is done with sandpaper on a flat surface, at different cycles, by monitoring the changes in weight and by visual comparison. With the increase of the number of cycles of wear it can be seen that the percentage weight loss of samples increases due to uprooting of fibers from the surface, and also the damages can occur which can be seen in the intermittent occurrence of yarn breakage and holes in the fabric.
The properties of textured POY PES multifilament yarns are conditioned by texturing temperature, texturing speed, stretching degree and by the ratio of disc peripheral speed and yarn speed. In the paper attention is focused on crimping of yarns. New method for defining crimping limits is proposed. The method is based on the flow analysis of the force-elongation function. POY multifilament polyester yarns, having the fineness of 167f36x1 dtex were analyzed. The texturing of PES multifilament yarns was performed using different first heater temperatures (350 oC, 400 oC, 450 oC) and maintaining the constant temperature of the second heater (180 oC), then with different texturing speeds (500 m/min, 600 m/min, 700 m/min, 900 m/min, 1000 m/min, 1100 m/min), using different ratio of the disc circumferential speed to yarn speed (2.15, 2.20, 2.25) and at the extension degree of 1.665.
In the process of texturing, smooth filaments are formed into crimpy yarns. By combining thermal and mechanical action, thermoplastic fibres acquire a permanent wavy shape. Since textured multifilament yarns, formed from POY PES filaments, produced on machines with high-temperature heaters, are insufficiently studied, this paper analyses the deformation characteristics of yarns produced in industrial conditions using different process parameters (primary heater temperature, yarn speed, yarn stretching, peripheral speed of friction discs). Special attention is paid to the characteristics at the elastic limit, then at the creep limit, yield and breaking of multifilament textured yarns. A method is proposed which can determine the key points of deformation in the process of stretching textured polyester multifilament yarn, as well as the relationship between the values of force and elongation at the limits of elasticity, creep, end of creep zone, yield and break
Joining of the parts of clothing items in the clothing industry is mostly done with sewing threads, of which polyester threads occupy a significant place. At the joining places e.g sewing, together with the seams and stitches, the threads should provide adequate comfort to the garment. The characteristics of the seams will also depend on their characteristics. The paper analyzes polyester threads from staple fibers, linear density from 23 tex to 48 tex. The dependences between the mechanical characteristics of the threads and the threads in the loop, as well as their mutual relations by the corresponding coefficients are presented. The obtained results can be used by manufacturers of sewing threads and clothes in the design and the selection of threads for the purpose of predicting the mechanical characteristics of seams on garments.
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