Camp I. Lovely morning, n o wind and quite cloudlcss sun. \Varrn. Cump 11. Very fine day, hardly any wind, though i t got up light but \cry kcen about 4 p,m, Probably gooil day on mountain.Cainp I I I . Sunny, windy a t intervals. Very windy on Evercst, and in basin of Yorth Col. May 9. Base Camp. Clear at 8.30 a.m. Mountain obscured by g a.m. Snow began 1 0 a.m. and continued until some time during the night. An average of about 4 in. of snow fell with drifts up to I ft. and grass showing in places. Very littlc wind. Camp XI. Slight fall of snow during t h e night, odd flakes falling during breakfast-time. Snowed without ceasing all day, increasing in intensity towards evening. Brceze light and variable. Camp III. Snow falling i n morning, \erv light clouds and gusty wind. Duse L'ump. sunset. '\ hopeless day on the mountain. cloud barrier all day. \\'ind not csccssive. day. ;iftcrnoon and evening cloudy ; night windy. a"["LrcnLly. Camp III. \%'\;eather northwards still cloudless, a good dral of cloud coming off Everest, and distinctly coltlrr than I., but o n the whole loo1;s g d and healthy still. Slay 19. Rase Camp. 1Veather in the morning fine. I n afternoon cloudy and windy. Mountain obscured. Frrsh snow on hills above i;,Soo ft. Camp I. Beautiful evening. Clrar night. Camp II. \Venther fine and settled looking. j p.m. sleet started. Camp III. Fine but cold. cloud banner. i\pparently much wind on mountain. Camp I. Bright, sunny inorning, no wind. May 2 1 . Rase Camp. \Yeather tery bad. Mountain obscured all day. Snow fell in Base Camp this afternoon. Camp II. Snow again a t I p.m. Camp III. Warm a.m. with a lot of cloud about. After snowing lightly on and off all day. settled down in earnest 1.30 p.m. and continued to snow for 26 hours. May 22. Rase Ccimp. Weather last night bad. Heavy clouds with much wind on mountain. Snow in Camp. Camp II. Snowed up t o 4 p.m., then cleared and became very cold. Camp III. Snowed hard all day until 3 p.m. Cleared before sunset. May 23. Base Camp. Morning clear and with little wind. Mountain clouded over in afternoon. Camp I. Glorious weather here, but high wind above. Camp II. Bright sunny morning. Snow clouds came over about 3 p.m. Snojvrd latw. Lightning to S. a t night. I\ heavy cloud over the plateau. May 20. Base Camp. IVeather fine but windy. ?vlountain clear except for Snow in the morning up to 8 a.m. Slight snowfall in Camp.
DURING the Everest expedition of 1924 I made observations on the composition of alveolar air of several members of the party at three different heights above sea-level. The samples of air were collected in football bladders. In collecting a sample the subject first breathed out, held his breath for two seconds whilst putting the bladder to his lips, then expired as strongly as possible into it. This was done in exactly the same way in every case. It was not practicable to analyse at once the samples collected above the level of the base camp, on account of the freezing of the solution and other conditions. These, then, were taken to the base camp and analysed there; it will be seen from the analysis and considerations given below that there was no appreciable diffusion of gases through the wall of the bladder. I was unable to procure a Haldane apparatus in Calcutta, but by the kindness of Major Shorten, I.M.S. and his staff at the Calcutta Medical College, I managed to put together a similar apparatus of 150 c.c. capacity which gave consistent results in control experiments.The air was collected by asking a man to breathe out, stop two seconds while putting the football bladder to his lips and gasp out into that. This was done in exactly the same way in every case in order that all results of analysis might be as far as possible comparable. Analysis was effected in the usual way by strong caustic soda for the CO2, followed by the mixture of pyrogallic acid, exactly as in a Haldane apparatus, except that a longer time was allowed for the absorption of the oxygen. In each case a little water was left above the mercury. The gas burette was kept at an even temperature by the constant pouring of water at a fixed temperature over it. At the Base Camp this was easily managed owing to the presence of a spring.
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