Colonial cheese is a traditional dairy product in southern Brazil and is commonly purchased by the citizens of Porto Alegre. However, there is still a lack of technical regulation of colonial cheese, and there is little information about the microbiological quality of this product at the retail level. Thus, the objectives of this study were to (i) evaluate compliance with the legal microbiological standards of colonial cheese sampled from street fairs and the central market of the city of Porto Alegre; (ii) statistically test the hypothesis of an association between noncompliance with the standards and local purchasing (street fairs or central market); (iii) estimate the number of Listeria spp. and Listeria monocytogenes in the positive samples; and (iv) characterize the L. monocytogenes strains by serotyping and macrorestriction (PFGE). For this purpose, 205 cheese samples belonging to 17 different brands were analyzed. The microbiological analyses were conducted according to ISO standardized protocols for the detection of L. monocytogenes and Salmonella spp. or by enumeration of coagulase-positive Staphylococcus and coliforms at 45°C. Among the samples, 47.31% did not comply with at least one of the microbiological standards established by the Brazilian legislation and were thus unsuitable for human consumption. Regarding the coliforms at 45ºC and coagulase-positive Staphylococcus, 10.73% and 40.48% of the samples presented higher counts than the legal parameter, respectively. There was no association between the frequency of samples with coagulase-positive Staphylococcus counts above the legal parameter and local of purchasing; however, the commercial brand influenced the frequency of unsuitable samples. This may indicate failures of hygiene during cheese production. Salmonella spp. were not detected. Listeria monocytogenes was isolated from 2.9% of the samples. The estimated average populations of Listeria spp. and L. monocytogenes were low in the positive cheese samples at -3.3 log CFU g?1 and -2.26 log CFU g?¹, respectively. The strains of L. monocytogenes belonged to serovars 1/2a, 1/2b and 1/2c and could be grouped into five pulsotypes with no evident epidemiological relation among them. The results demonstrate the need to improve the hygiene procedures during colonial cheese production and to strengthen monitoring at the dairy plants and retail levels.
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