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Biomedical and Biopharmaceutical Research J o r n a l d e I n v e s t i g a ç ã o B i o m é d i c a e B i o f a r m a c ê u t i c a Development and in vivo evaluation of the moisturising potential of cosmetic formulations containing Babassu (Orbignya phalerata Martius) oily extract AbstractThe objective of this study was to use oily extracts of the species Orbignya phalerata Martius (Babassu) from three ecological regions in Maranhão state, Brazil: Forest (BBF), Coast (BBC) and Lowlands (BBL) to develop cosmetic formulations. Formulations with 10 wt% of Babassu oily extracts were characterised regarding their stability for 30 days (separation of phases after centrifugation, pH, density, viscosity and droplets size distribution) and evaluation of efficacy in vivo by cutaneous biometry. Results indicated that the formulations were physically stable and presented pseudo-plastic fluid behavior as evaluated by rheology. Concerning the in vivo efficacy assays, the formulation containing BBL increased the hydration of the volunteers'skin when compared to a formulation containing only a commercial standard moisturising ingredient, without altering the skin pH. BBL showed to be a promising ingredient to cosmetics, behaving as an excellent moisturiser likely because it contains the highest amounts of lauric, myristic and oleic acids that present great emollient potential.Keywords: Cosmetic formulations, cutaneous biometry, in vivo evaluation of moisturising effect, Orbignya phalerata Martius, vegetal oily extract. ResumoO objetivo deste estudo foi utilizar extratos oleosos da espécie Orbignya phalerata Martius (Babaçu) de três regiões ecológicas do Estado do Maranhão (Brasil): Mata dos Cocais (BBF), Litoral (BBC) e Baixada Maranhense (BBL) para desenvolver formulações cosméticas. As formulações com 10% em peso de extratos oleosos de Babaçu foram caracterizadas quanto à sua estabilidade durante 30 dias (separação de fases após centrifugação, pH, densidade, viscosidade e distribuição de tamanho das gotículas) e avaliação da eficácia in vivo por biometria cutânea. Os resultados indicaram que as formulações foram fisicamente estáveis e apresentaram comportamento de fluido pseudoplástico, avaliado por reologia. Em relação aos ensaios de eficácia in vivo, a formulação contendo BBL aumentou a hidratação da pele dos voluntários quando comparada com uma formulação contendo apenas um ingrediente hidratante padrão comercial, sem alterar o pH da pele. BBL mostrou ser um ingrediente promissor para cosméticos, comportando-se como um excelente hidratante, provavelmente porque contém as maiores quantidades de ácidos láurico, mirístico e oleico que apresentam grande potencial emoliente.Palavras chave: Formulações cosméticas, biometria cutânea, avaliação in vivo do efeito hidratante, Orbignya phalerata Martius, extrato oleoso vegetal.

Background. Cardiovascular disease (CVD) is the leading cause of death in Western civilizations. The type of fatty acid which makes up the diet is related to the cardiovascular morbimortality and the formation of atheromas. Populations with high consumption of oils and fats have a higher number of deaths from CVD. Purpose. In the present study, the objective was to comparatively analyze the microcirculatory effects of unrefined babassu oil with olive oil in microcirculation and liver of male hamsters of the species Mesocricetus auratus, checking the permeability to macromolecules after ischemia-reperfusion (I/R) without and with topical application of histamine 5 × 10−6 M. This is an experimental study, using as model the hamster’s cheek pouch, which was prepared for intravital microscopy. The hamsters were divided into seven groups and orally treated for 14 days, twice a day (at 8 AM and 4 PM), orally received treatments in the following doses: unrefined babassu oil (BO) 0.02 mL/dose (group BO-2), 0.06 mL/dose (group BO-6), and 0.18 mL/dose (BO-18 group); extra virgin olive oil (OI) 0.02 mL/dose (group OI-2), 0.06 mL/dose (group OI-6), and 0.18 mL/dose (OI-18 group); and mineral oil (MO) 0.18 mL/dose (MO-18 group). The observations were made on the 15th day on the hamsters’ cheek pouch; the increase of vascular permeability induced by I/R with and without histamine application was evaluated, and in the liver the biological material was collected aseptically then fixed in 10% buffered formalin. Results. Microcirculatory analyses showed a significant reduction in the number of leaks after I/R with and without the topical use of histamine in animals treated with unrefined BO 0.06 mL/dose (BO-6) and 0.18 mL/dose (BO-18) compared to animals treated with OI. The BO group (p<0.001) presented a dose-response relationship for decreasing leaks after I/R with and without topical use of histamine. Histological liver analyses showed no fat deposition changes in any of the treatment groups. Phytochemical analyses evidenced a chemical compound (C31H60NO8) in unrefined BO but not in OI. Conclusions. This experiment demonstrates the protective effect of unrefined BO on the microcirculatory system and its greater dose effect than that of OI. Finding a chemical compound (C31H60NO8) that is present in BO but not in OI opens the possibility of investigating whether this chemical compound was responsible for the protective effect on membrane permeability.