This paper reviews the published literature on the uses of oleochemical surfactants and lubricants in the textile industry with a dual emphasis on textile technology and effects that oleochemicals can have on that technology. Oleochemical derivatives are used in the textile industry as surfactants, emulsifiers, wetting agents, antistatic agents, softeners, antimicrobial agents, water and oil repellents, antisoil agents, lubricants, cohesive agents and dyeing assistants. The relationship between the amount of fatty acid derivatives consumed in textile operations and global fiber production is discussed. Small amounts of oleochemicals acting at interfaces are invaluable in their effects on textiles. Oleochemical surfactant chemical and physical properties of importance in textile operations are described, and the relationships between certain properties of oleochemicals and their performance on textile fibers are reviewed. The basic principles and technology of spin finishes and textile processing aids are discussed. The effects of oleochemical surfactants in dyeing and as finishing agents for textile fibers are described briefly. The conclusion presents the prognosis for the future of oleochemicals in the textile industry.

This part of the study aims to investigate the role of fiber finish in the carding process. Two different fibers, namely, polyester and polypropylene with different levels of finish and finish uniformity, are processed on carding machine. Certain key response parameters such as fiber breakage, fiberweb cohesion, fiberweb uniformity, nep generation and static charge generation, are chosen and the effect of finish level and its uniformity on these parameters are observed. The finish performance is also studied for possible interaction effects between other carding process parameters. The results indicate a significant effect of finish add-on percentage on most of the response parameters. On the other hand, finish uniformity was found to have less influence on the response parameters. It has also been found that the response parameters behave differently for each of the two fibers and hence results based on one type of fiber may not be applicable for another.

This part of the study aims to investigate the role of fiber finish during processing on the needlepunching machine. Certain key response parameters like dynamic needling forces and needlepunched fabric properties are analyzed for any possible effect of finish level and its uniformity on these responses. The experiments were performed using polyester and polypropylene, two of the most commonly used fibers in needlepunched products, to investigate the difference response due to fiber type. While the results published in Part 2 of this study showed that finish uniformity fail to show any effect on carding processability, it was found to have a significant effect on needlepunching forces and needled fabric properties.