Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme of melanin production and, accordingly, is the most prominent target for inhibiting hyperpigmentation. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors have been identified, but most of those lack clinical efficacy because they were identified using mushroom tyrosinase as the target. Therefore, we used recombinant human tyrosinase to screen a library of 50,000 compounds and compared the active screening hits with well-known whitening ingredients. Hydroquinone and its derivative arbutin only weakly inhibited human tyrosinase with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC) in the millimolar range, and kojic acid showed a weak efficacy (IC > 500 μmol/L). The most potent inhibitors of human tyrosinase identified in this screen were resorcinyl-thiazole derivatives, especially the newly identified Thiamidol (Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg, Germany) (isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol), which had an IC of 1.1 μmol/L. In contrast, Thiamidol only weakly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase (IC = 108 μmol/L). In melanocyte cultures, Thiamidol strongly but reversibly inhibited melanin production (IC = 0.9 μmol/L), whereas hydroquinone irreversibly inhibited melanogenesis (IC = 16.3 μmol/L). Clinically, Thiamidol visibly reduced the appearance of age spots within 4 weeks, and after 12 weeks some age spots were indistinguishable from the normal adjacent skin. The full potential of Thiamidol to reduce hyperpigmentation of human skin needs to be explored in future studies.

Background Hyperpigmentary disorders like melasma, actinic and senile lentigines are a major cosmetic concern.

SummaryInteractions between melanocytes and neighboring cells in the skin are important in regulating skin color in humans. We recently demonstrated that the less pigmented and thicker skin on the palms and soles is regulated by underlying fibroblasts in those areas, specifically via a secreted factor (DKK1) that modulates Wnt signaling. In this study, we tested the hypothesis that dermal fibroblasts regulate the constitutive skin color of individuals ranging from very light to very dark. We used microarray analysis to compare gene expression patterns in fibroblasts derived from lighter skin types compared to darker skin types, with a focus on secreted proteins. We identified a number of genes that differ dramatically in expression and, among the expressed proteins, neuregulin-1, which is secreted by fibroblasts derived from dark skin, effectively increases the pigmentation of melanocytes in tissue culture and in an artificial skin model and regulates their growth, suggesting that it is one of the major factors determining human skin color.

Melasma is a pigmentary disorder characterized by hyperpigmented patchy skin in sun-exposed areas, especially the face. Treatment of melasma can be challenging because long-term therapy is required, reoccurrence is common, and existing therapies are insufficient and unsatisfactory. To investigate new treatment options, we performed an exploratory double-blinded, randomized split-face study to assess the efficacy of the tyrosinase inhibitor Thiamidol compared to hydroquinone in women with mild to moderate melasma. After 12 weeks, modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores significantly improved on both the Thiamidol-treated and the hydroquinone-treated sides of the face. Additionally, Thiamidol treatment improved modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores significantly better than hydroquinone, and more subjects improved following treatment with Thiamidol (79%) compared with hydroquinone (61%). During treatment, no subjects displayed worsening of modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores on the Thiamidol-treated side, while approximately 10% of the subjects showed a worsening of modified Melasma Area and Severity Index scores on the hydroquinone-treated side. All subjects routinely used sunscreens and consistent results were obtained in low and in high UV ambient conditions. Subjects rated the efficacy of the Thiamidol formulation significantly better with regard to overall decreased intensity of dark spots and their overall appearance throughout the study. Thiamidol was well-tolerated and well-perceived and represents an effective agent to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Tyrosinase inhibitors are of great clinical interest as agents for the treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders; however, most compounds described in the literature lack clinical efficiency due to insufficient inhibitory activity against human tyrosinase (hTyr). Recently, we reported that thiazolyl resorcinols (4-resorcinylthiazol-2-amines and -amides) are both selective and efficacious inhibitors of hTyr in vitro and in vivo. Here, we measured dose-activity profiles of a large number of thiazolyl resorcinols and analogous compounds to better understand the molecular basis of their interaction with hTyr. We show that both the resorcinyl moiety and the thiazole ring must be intact to allow efficient inhibition of hTyr, while the substituents at the thiazole 2-amino group confer additional inhibitory activity, depending on their size and polarity. The results of molecular docking simulations were in excellent agreement with the experimental data, affording a rationale for the structural importance of either ring. We further propose that a special type of interaction between the thiazole sulfur and a conserved asparagine residue is partially responsible for the superior inhibitory activity of thiazolyl resorcinols against hTyr.