Valorization of wild plants to obtain botanical ingredients could be a strategy for sustainable production of cosmetics. This study aimed to select the rosehip extract containing the greatest amounts of bioactive compounds and to encapsulate it in vesicular systems capable of protecting their own antioxidant activity. Chemical analysis of Rosa canina L. extracts was performed by LC-DAD-MS/MS and 1H-NMR and vitamins, phenolic compounds, sugars, and organic acids were detected as the main compounds of the extracts. Liposomes, prepared by the film hydration method, together with hyalurosomes and ethosomes, obtained by the ethanol injection method, were characterized in terms of vesicle size, polydispersity index, entrapment efficiency, zeta potential, in vitro release and biocompatibility on WS1 fibroblasts. Among all types of vesicular systems, ethosomes proved to be the most promising nanocarriers showing nanometric size (196 ± 1 nm), narrow polydispersity (0.20 ± 0.02), good entrapment efficiency (92.30 ± 0.02%), and negative zeta potential (−37.36 ± 0.55 mV). Moreover, ethosomes showed good stability over time, a slow release of polyphenols compared with free extract, and they were not cytotoxic. In conclusion, ethosomes could be innovative carriers for the encapsulation of rosehip extract.

Rising environmental awareness drives green consumers to purchase sustainable cosmetics based on natural bioactive compounds. The aim of this study was to deliver Rosa canina L. extract as a botanical ingredient in an anti-aging gel using an eco-friendly approach. Rosehip extract was first characterized in terms of its antioxidant activity through a DPPH assay and ROS reduction test and then encapsulated in ethosomal vesicles with different percentages of ethanol. All formulations were characterized in terms of size, polydispersity, zeta potential, and entrapment efficiency. Release and skin penetration/permeation data were obtained through in vitro studies, and cell viability was assessed using an MTT assay on WS1 fibroblasts. Finally, ethosomes were incorporated in hyaluronic gels (1% or 2% w/v) to facilitate skin application, and rheological properties were studied. Rosehip extract (1 mg/mL) revealed a high antioxidant activity and was successfully encapsulated in ethosomes containing 30% ethanol, having small sizes (225.4 ± 7.0 nm), low polydispersity (0.26 ± 0.02), and good entrapment efficiency (93.41 ± 5.30%). This formulation incorporated in a hyaluronic gel 1% w/v showed an optimal pH for skin application (5.6 ± 0.2), good spreadability, and stability over 60 days at 4 °C. Considering sustainable ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing technology, the ethosomal gel of rosehip extract could be an innovative and green anti-aging skincare product.

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The selection of an appropriate dressing for each type of wound is a very important procedure for a faster and more accurate healing process. So, the aim of this study was to develop innovative Spanish Broom and flax wound dressings, as alternatives to cotton used as control, with polymeric films containing glycyrrhetinic acid (GA) to promote wound-exudate absorption and the healing process. The different wound dressings were prepared by a solvent casting method, and characterized in terms of drug loading, water uptake, and in vitro release. Moreover, biological studies were performed to evaluate their biocompatibility and wound-healing efficacy. Comparing the developed wound dressings, Spanish Broom dressings with GA-loaded sodium hyaluronate film had the best functional properties, in terms of hydration ability and GA release. Moreover, they showed a good biocompatibility, determining a moderate induction of cell proliferation and no cytotoxicity. In addition, the wound-healing test revealed that the Spanish Broom dressings promoted cell migration, further facilitating the closure of the wound.