12:0, 16:0, 14:1(9). Mill. (Z Vulgaris Lam., jujube, unabi, Chinese data) is a wood plant belonging to the family Rhamnaceae. In the wild, the plant is widespread in the Caucasus and in Central Asia. It is cultivated in Uzbekistan as a fruit culture [ 1]. The fruits are valued for their nourishing, dietetic, and medical properties. They are used in stomach diseases and for metabolic regulation in Tibetan medicine; it is used for the treatment of cardiovascular and neurological diseases, chronic infection, and tuberculosis of various organs in China; it is used as a sedative and lactogenic remedy in Korean and Arabian medicine, respectively. Decoctions, infusions and the dried fruit are used as expectorant, antispasmodic, and antiselerotic remedies in Central Asia. The preparation "Unabin" was offered as a diuretic [1, 2]. Ziziphus jujubaFrom the air-dried pulp of Z jujuba fruits (ta-yan-tsao sort of Uzbek origin), 0.25% of hexane-extracted lipids and 13 fatty acids (FA) have been isolated. Half of the FA mass consisted of fatty acid 16:1 with the C=C position unestablished. Eleven FA were found in the seeds of the fruits; 18:I predominated [3]. The isomer of fatty acid 16:1 (7) is present as a minor constituent in the seeds of Z jujuba from the Chinese province Hunan, while the major component is an acid 20:1 (11) [4].The pulp of the dried fruits has a weak pleasant fragrance. From volatile substances of fruits of Chinese origin, isolated from the steam distillate with dichloromethane extraction, 78 components were identified; the aliphatic acids (more than 60% of the aliphatic acid mass) were 3:0-16:0, 12:1 (2), 14:1, and 16: I, mainly FA 10:0 and 12:0 [5].We studied the FA from the air-dried pulp of the large-fruit of ta-yan-tszao sort, cultivated in Tashkent. Hexane-extracted lipids were isolated from the ground pulp (moisture 9.4%) with 0.5% yield. The FA were obtained after alkaline hydrolysis of the extractives and separation of the unsaponifiable part. Then the FA were converted to their methyl esters (ME) and were analyzed by UV, IlL MS, and GLC using polar and middle polar phases.The UV spectrum of the ME in the 234-nm field was transparent, indicating the absence of FA with a conjugated system of ethylenic bonds. The absorption band of the trans-olefins at 960-970 cm "t was not observed in the IR spectrum of the ME. The mass spectrum showed ME with a carlx)n chain length from 14 to 28 atoms. The results of MS and GLC analyses are given in Table 1.The monoenic fraction was isolated from the total FA ME by Ag+-TLC in system 1 in order to determine the olefinic bond position in the FA chain. It had the following composition (%, GLC on the DB

This review considers methods of obtaining lipophilic extracts from plant raw material, and their composition, biological properties, and use in phytotherapy and phytocosmetics.More than 40% of the drugs used in medicine are based on preparations of plant origin [l]. The majority of biologically active substances (BASS) and individual drug preparations isolated from plants are less xenogenous than synthetic substances and do not have pronounced side effects on the organism in prolonged use [2, 41. These preparations are included in metabolic processes of animal cells more smoothly and, in their biological effect, approximate to the action of natural metabolites participating in the processes of the internal metabolism. Among them, substances have been found with hypoglycemic, hypolipoproteinemic, antiatherosclerotic, and hepatoprotective properties that also possess pronounced immunomodulating and antiallergic effects. They are used for treating the cardiovascular, hepatobiliary, and immune systems and are widely employed in medical phytocosmetics [2, 31.In the cosmetics industry a tendency is being followed to the ever-increasing use of plant extracts as necessary bioactive additives in the creation of new formulations with medicinal and prophylactic properties. It must be mentiomd that the same demands are made on extracts used in cosmetic products as on those intended for phytotherapy [3]. The variety of extracts included in cosmetics is constantly expanding through the use of new wild species and vegetable, orchard, and technical crops and the wastes from their processing [4].In the present review an attempt has been made to throw light on modem directions in the technology of the production of plant lipophilic extracts (LEs) and their use in phytotherapy and medicinal cosmetics. Since the main direction in the industrial production of medicinal cosmetics is the search for agents for the care of the skin slowing down the processes of aging and for hair care preparations [5], our-main attention is devoted to the use of LEs in these types of compositions.Depending on the degree .of nonpolarity of the extractant and the type of raw material, lipophilic extractions may be divided into three main groups:-oil extracts obtained by steeping mainly the vegetative organs of plants with vegetable and mineral oils and animal fats; -nonedible oils extracted by nonpolar solvents from seeds or, more rarely, fruits of known crop plants and nontraditional species; and -lipophilic extracts obtained from the epigeal parts of plants, roots, and the wastes of their treatment with nonpolar or weakly polar solvents and with liquefied gases or mixtures of them.Oil extracts and medicinal oils from the seeds of some food and technical crops are well known gale&al preparations that are still in wide use at the present time [6]. Earlier, oil extracts were obtained mainly from alkaloid-bearing and essential-oil plants [7]. The comminuted raw material was treated with ethanol or a solution of ammonia in ethanol and was steeped with olive ...

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