A dictionary of the raw materials of perfumery

Poucher, W. A.

doi:10.1007/978-94-009-5691-9_1

Cited by 10 publications

(7 citation statements)

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“…Prior to conducting the statistical analysis of this database, we checked the odor descriptions of the materials in sources such as Brechbill (2007), Green (1999), Müller (1992), Poucher (1974), andSigma-Aldrich (2003). As a preliminary study, we calculated the correlation coefficient for all possible pairs of descriptors and focused the attention on the 48 highest values.…”

Section: Methods the Boelens-haring Database Of Numeric Odor Profilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Understanding the underlying dimensions in perfumers' odor perception space as a basis for developing meaningful odor maps

Zarzo

Stanton

2009

Attention, Perception & Psychophysics

120

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Section: Methods the Boelens-haring Database Of Numeric Odor Profilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…For the interpretation of PC2, a Odor description according to Müller (1992). b Odor description according to Poucher (1974). c Odor description according to Green (1999).…”

Section: Thiboud's Database Of Semantic Odor Profilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Understanding the underlying dimensions in perfumers' odor perception space as a basis for developing meaningful odor maps

Zarzo

Stanton

2009

Attention, Perception & Psychophysics

120

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“…The term ‘res.’ stands for resinoid. The correspondence between descriptors and references used by Boelens & Haring [12] is indicated in Table 2.bPeach is the fruity descriptor most frequently encountered in the H&R guide.cPine and fir trees are conifers and their essential oil smells alike.dPeppermint or spearmint.eMixture of ambergris and costus oil.fClove oil contains >85% of eugenol [25]. …”

Section: Figurementioning

confidence: 99%

What is a Fresh Scent in Perfumery? Perceptual Freshness is Correlated with Substantivity

Zarzo

2012

Sensors

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Perfumes are manufactured by mixing odorous materials with different volatilities. The parameter that measures the lasting property of a material when applied on the skin is called substantivity or tenacity. It is well known by perfumers that citrus and green notes are perceived as fresh and they tend to evaporate quickly, while odors most dissimilar to ‘fresh’ (e.g., oriental, powdery, erogenic and animalic scents) are tenacious. However, studies aimed at quantifying the relationship between fresh odor quality and substantivity have not received much attention. In this work, perceptual olfactory ratings on a fresh scale, estimated in a previous study, were compared with substantivity parameters and antierogenic ratings from the literature. It was found that the correlation between fresh odor character and odorant substantivity is quite strong (r = −0.85). ‘Fresh’ is sometimes interpreted in perfumery as ‘cool’ and the opposite of ‘warm’. This association suggests that odor freshness might be somehow related to temperature. Assuming that odor perception space was shaped throughout evolution in temperate climates, results reported here are consistent with the hypothesis that ‘fresh’ evokes scents typically encountered in the cool season, while ‘warm’ would be evoked by odors found in nature during summer. This hypothesis is rather simplistic but it may provide a new insight to better understand the perceptual space of scents.

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“…It contains a butter-like material made of albumins, fats, urates, and salts (1.4% calcium phosphate) and a layer of castorin (0.33% to 2.5%), a waxy crystalline substance separated from the hot alcoholic extract on cooling. The remainder consists of volatile oils (1% to 2%) and other minor constituents (Leung and Foster 1996;Arctander 1960;List and Horhammer 1976;Poucher 1974).…”

Section: Specificationsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Safety Assessment of Castoreum Extract as a Food Ingredient

Burdock¹

2007

Int J Toxicol

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Castoreum extract (CAS NO. 8023-83-4; FEMA NO. 2261) is a natural product prepared by direct hot-alcohol extraction of castoreum, the dried and macerated castor sac scent glands (and their secretions) from the male or female beaver. It has been used extensively in perfumery and has been added to food as a flavor ingredient for at least 80 years. Both the Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regard castoreum extract as generally recognized as safe (GRAS). Acute toxicity studies in animals indicate that castoreum extract is nontoxic by both oral and dermal routes of administration and is not irritating or phototoxic to skin. Skin sensitization has not been observed in human subject tests. Castoreum extract possesses weak antibacterial activity. A long historical use of castoreum extract as a flavoring and fragrance ingredient has resulted in no reports of human adverse reactions. On the basis of this information, low-level, long-term exposure to castoreum extract does not pose a health risk. The objective of this review is to evaluate the safety-in-use of castoreum extract as a food ingredient.

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A dictionary of the raw materials of perfumery

Cited by 10 publications

References 0 publications

Understanding the underlying dimensions in perfumers' odor perception space as a basis for developing meaningful odor maps

Understanding the underlying dimensions in perfumers' odor perception space as a basis for developing meaningful odor maps

What is a Fresh Scent in Perfumery? Perceptual Freshness is Correlated with Substantivity

Safety Assessment of Castoreum Extract as a Food Ingredient

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