A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

Enescu, Christina D; Bedford, Lisa M; Potts, Geoffrey F.; Fahs, Fatima

doi:10.1111/jocd.14465

Cited by 22 publications

(21 citation statements)

References 62 publications

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“…Those have shown effects on different pillars of skin aging. 60 The body of evidence suggest that in vitro antioxidant efficacy can be a good predictor of in vivo antiaging efficacy-which supports the application of such assays in the investigation of a new cosmetics ingredient candidate.…”

Section: The Ach37 Extract Permeates Human Skin Explants and Promotes...mentioning

confidence: 84%

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

Reis¹,

Rosa²,

Pessa³

et al. 2023

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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BackgroundSkin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.AimsThe present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.MethodsWe employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.ResultsThe ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2−), prevent inflammation (LPS‐ and UV‐induced COX‐2, IL‐1β, and IL‐8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP‐1, MMP‐3, and MMP‐12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV‐induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.ConclusionThe results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

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Section: The Ach37 Extract Permeates Human Skin Explants and Promotes...mentioning

confidence: 84%

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

Reis¹,

Rosa²,

Pessa³

et al. 2023

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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“…Modulation of the dermal fibroblast–ECM interactions, by breaking the self-perpetuating cycle of collagen fibril fragmentation, is also an important procedure to skin anti-ageing. 77 , 78 This involves introducing agents that can stimulate fibroblast proliferation, 79 suppress expression of MMPs, 80 boost collagenesis, 81 elastin production, 82 and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, 83 etc.…”

Section: Skin Anti-ageing Regimenmentioning

confidence: 99%

Skin Ageing: A Progressive, Multi-Factorial Condition Demanding an Integrated, Multilayer-Targeted Remedy

Liang¹,

Su²,

Wang³

2023

CCID

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Of the human organs, skin is the most visible one that displays the manifestations of ageing. It has a very intricate microanatomical structure and performs several key physiological functions. The pathophysiology of cutaneous ageing is characterized by deterioration of structural stability and functional integrity, implying a continuous reduction in maximal function and reserve capacity, as a result of the accumulating damage due to both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Elimination of unfavorable expressions associated with facial and cutaneous ageing is the key patient demand in aesthetic dermatology. Even though the progress has been made in nonsurgical therapies like fillers and lasers, non-invasive interventions by using skin care products designed for rejuvenation at an early stage are the most popular and accessible solution among people. In this review, we have scrutinized the ageing-associated cutaneous changes at molecular, cellular and tissue levels. To optimize the ageing process towards a healthy skin, we propose an integrated, multilayer-targeted intervention, which involves both topical application of anti-ageing formulations from outside and oral supplementation from inside. Additionally, several promising naturally derived ingredients are reviewed from an anti-aging perspective. Most of them possess various bioactivities and may contribute to the development of the mentioned anti-ageing remedy.

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“…Vitamin C is also available in different concentrations and different brand names like Obagi ® , Skinceuticals ® , and many others 72 . Vitamin C is commonly used as a skin‐lightening agent and in many skincare products like serums, creams, and lotions 73 . It is found in different forms like L‐ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl palmitate.…”

Section: Ethosomes Applications In Cosmetic Deliverymentioning

confidence: 99%

Unlocking the potential of cosmetic dermal delivery with ethosomes: A comprehensive review

Abu‐Huwaij

Zidan

2023

J of Cosmetic Dermatology

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BackgroundIn a world where hair loss, acne, and skin whitening are common concerns, ethosomes emerge as a captivating breakthrough in cosmetic drug delivery.MethodThis review provides a comprehensive overview of the ethosomal system and assesses its potential as an effective nanocarrier for delivering active ingredients to the skin. The focus is on exploring their applications in various pathologies, particularly skin disorders such as acne, hair loss, and skin pigmentation.ResultsEthosomes are a novel type of vesicular nanocarrier composed of high concentrations of ethanol (20‐45%) and phospholipids. Their unique structure and composition make them an ideal choice for transporting active ingredients through the skin, offering targeted and effective treatment. The inclusion of ethanol in ethosomes' composition gives them distinctive properties, including flexibility, deformability, and stability, facilitating deep penetration into the skin and enhancing medication deposition. Moreover, ethosomes improved theoverall drug‐loading capacity, and specificity of target treatmentConclusionEthosomes represent a unique and suitable approach for delivering active cosmetic ingredients in the treatment of hair loss, acne, and skin whitening, presenting a versatile alternative to traditional dermal delivery systems. Despite the challenges associated with their complex preparation and sensitivity to temperature and humidity, the remarkable potential benefits of ethosomes cannot be ignored. Further research is crucial to unlock their full potential, understand their limitations, and refine their formulations and administration methods. Ethosomes hold the promise of transforming the way we address these cosmetic concerns, offering an exciting glimpse into the future of advanced skincare solutions.

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A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

Cited by 22 publications

References 62 publications

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

Skin Ageing: A Progressive, Multi-Factorial Condition Demanding an Integrated, Multilayer-Targeted Remedy

Unlocking the potential of cosmetic dermal delivery with ethosomes: A comprehensive review

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