Abstracts: Direct inhibition of elastase and matrixmetalloproteinases and stimulation of biosynthesis of fibrillar collagens, elastin, and fibrillins by xanthohumol

Abstract

In vitro data suggest that different in vivo performances are expected for two dihydroxyacetone (DHA)-containing formulations with similar concentrations of DHA and excipients but different commercially available rheology modifiers: one with a cationic polymer-based rheology modifier (blend) [dimethylacrylamide/ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (and) C10-11 isoparaffin]; and the other with a polyacrylamide-based rheology modifier (blend) [polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7]. Both rheology modifiers (blends) contained comparable levels of polymers and were used at 3% w/w (as supplied). Differences in color development were illustrated in vitro with respect to the yellow/red and lightness/chroma parameters, which were confirmed in the followup in vivo studies. The test article with the cationic polymer-based rheology modifier produced a more natural sunless tan, comparable to a desirable sun-induced tan, for all panelists, one that was more uniform and lasted longer compared with the sunless tan generated by the test article with the polyacrylamide-based rheology modifier. A method for HPLC analysis of DHA in sunless tanning formulations was established and utilized to confirm concentrations of DHA in test articles.pp. 85-105 Basic optics of effect materials by S. A. Jones: BASF Corporation,

Beneficial Regulation of Matrix Metalloproteinases for Skin Health

“…These products consist of polyphenols, carotenoids, or flavonoids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective, or anticarcinogenic properties [12–18]. …”

Inhibition of pathophysiological proteases with novel quercetin derivatives

“…Many publications document that fl avonoids, a class of natural polyphenolic substances, also possess inhibitory effect on various enzymes including serine proteases. They are effective in inhibition of serine proteases like trypsin (Parellada and Guinea, 1995;Maliar et al, 2004;Jedinák et al, 2006;Shahwar et al, 2012), thrombin (Jedinák et al, 2006;Mozzicafreddo et al, 2006;Liu et al, 2010), urokinase (Devipriya et al, 2006;Jedinák et al, 2006) or elastase (Kanashiro et al, 2007;Krenn et al, 2009;Philips et al, 2010). Among tested fl avonoids quercetin exhibited the best inhibitory action on trypsin, thrombin and elastase (Maliar et al, 2004;Mozzicafreddo et al, 2006;Kanashiro et al, 2007).…”

Beer and beer compounds: physiological effects on skin health

“…In a rat skin wound healing model, systemic administration of stout beer or stout beer supplemented with 10 mg/L xanthohumol for 4 weeks was found to significantly reduce inflammation, oxidative stress, and angiogenesis, ameliorating the wound healing process, as compared with the control group drinking only water . Xanthohumol was also shown to significantly inhibit elastase and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)‐9 activities (less effective on MMP‐1 and MMP‐2) and dramatically increase the expression of collagens type I/III/V and elastin, fibrillin‐1, and fibrillin‐2 in dermal fibroblasts, to similar degree of treatment with ascorbic acid …”

“…Preliminary studies showed that the addition of Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract to vitamins A/C/E enhances the skin moisture and only formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract had long‐term effects in the improvement of skin microrelief . With strong anti‐oxidative and anti‐inflammatory effects and being able to protect photodamage and regulate the expression of MMPs, many of the abovementioned compounds are considered to be hopeful for anti‐ageing, especially photoaging of the skin . In a rat model of ovariectomy‐induced menopause, daily subcutaneous administration of 8‐prenylnaringenin (400 μg/kg) was as effective as 17β‐oestradiol (4 μg/kg) in opposing postmenopausal hot flushes, indicating its potential effect on intrinsic ageing of the skin.…”