Aesthetic labour and diversity on the shopfloor: the experiences of women workers in fashion retail

Abstract

PurposeThis paper explores the workplace experiences of aesthetic labour among racially diverse frontline women workers in a fashion retail store.Design/methodology/approachThis qualitative study is based on an ethnographic study, drawing on findings from participant observation and interviews with frontline workers at a fashion retail store in the UK.FindingsThis paper explores how the embodiments of aesthetic labour are perpetually produced and commodified through the discipline of management in a fashion retail store. It challenges the notion of phenotypical Whiteness as the beauty standard within fashion retail and demonstrates how embodiments differ according to race. While White women are continuously scrutinised by their appearance, the aesthetic demands for women of colour tend to focus on speech and racialised bodies to provide “authentically” exotic experiences for customers. Additionally, this study highlights how the mobilisation of aesthetic labour can create work humiliation and work alienation.Research limitations/implicationsDespite this study being based on an ethnographic study at one British fashion retailer, this paper seeks to give voices to an underrepresented group by exploring the lived experiences of racially diverse women workers.Originality/valueThis paper contributes to the intersection between aesthetic labour and race from an embodiment perspective, exploring the workplace experiences of racially diverse women workers in fashion retail and how their various forms of embodiment are racialised and commodified.

Looking good and sounding right: a scale development of aesthetic labor in the hospitality industry

“…Airlines reject applicants who do not conform to their required appearance standards (Spiess and Waring, 2005; Zeeb and Spyridonos, 2023). Although many studies consider lookism to be a form of discrimination based on external appearance (Nickson, 2022; Oluyadi and Dai, 2023), appearance-based discrimination in the service industry is pervasive; this represents the negative aspect of AL.…”

“…Warhurst et al (2000) noted that industries transform employee abilities and attributes into aesthetic skills by refining, enhancing and commercializing them, often utilizing recruitment, selection and training processes; thus, a service style unique to the company is created to attract customers. To perform AL adequately, employees must manage the details of their appearance, mannerisms and intonation and must present an appropriate and attractive appearance (Katircioglu and Tekin, 2021;Oluyadi and Dai, 2023;Tsaur and Hsieh, 2020). Therefore, AL comprises the management of one's appearance and traits in customer interactions.…”

“…To enhance customer experience, employees require technical and soft skills (Genc and Kozak, 2020; Warhurst et al , 2000; Warhurst and Nickson, 2020). Many managers believe that aesthetic labor (AL) contributes to their desired corporate image, provides their business with a competitive advantage and enhances customer service experiences (Oluyadi and Dai, 2023; Wu et al , 2020; Zeeb and Spyridonos, 2023). Despite the challenges associated with erotic capital (Abubakar et al , 2019) and the potential for discrimination and related disputes (Nickson, 2022), AL is pervasive in most service industries, particularly in the hospitality industry, including airlines (Ren, 2017; Spiess and Waring, 2005; Zeeb and Spyridonos, 2023), hotels (Katircioglu and Tekin, 2021; Tsaur and Hsieh, 2020; Tsaur and Tang, 2013), holiday villages (Erköse, 2020) and restaurants (Genc and Kozak, 2020; Luoh and Tsaur, 2009; Tsaur et al , 2015).…”