An Experimental and Numerical Study of Long Wave Run-Up on a Plane Beach

Abstract

This research is to facilitate the current understanding of long wave dynamics at coasts and during on-land propagation; experimental and numerical approaches are compared against existing analytical expressions for the long wave run-up. Leading depression sinusoidal waves are chosen to model these dynamics. The experimental study was conducted using a new pump-driven wave generator and the numerical experiments were carried out with a one-dimensional discontinuous Galerkin non-linear shallow water model. The numerical model is able to accurately reproduce the run-up elevation and velocities predicted by the theoretical expressions. Depending on the surf similarity of the generated waves and due to imperfections of the experimental wave generation, riding waves are observed in the experimental results. These artifacts can also be confirmed in the numerical study when the data from the physical experiments is assimilated. Qualitatively, scale effects associated with the experimental setting are discussed. Finally, shoreline velocities, run-up and run-down are determined and shown to largely agree with analytical predictions.

Full-scale CFD simulation of tsunamis. Part 1: Model validation and run-up

“…Others have achieved reasonable scaling using other generation methods, see e.g. the pump generated tsunami experiments by Rossetto et al (2011), Goseberg et al (2013), Goseberg (2013), Drähne et al (2016) and .…”

Lagrangian-like Volume Tracking Paradigm for Mass, Momentum and Energy of Nearshore Tsunamis and Damping Mechanism

“…6 pointed out that solitary wave was barely justified for geophysical scale tsunami modelling just as meaningful evidence supporting the difference between N-wave and solitary wave has been reported 16 – 19 . Accordingly, we generate a single-period sinusoidal wave on the flat seabed, which can be found through recent tsunami-related works 20 – 22 . The incident wave is designed to be with .…”

Numerical Investigation of Wave Generation Characteristics of Bottom-Tilting Flume Wavemaker

“…By raising or lowering the water level in the chamber through the adjustment of its relative vacuum, a corresponding wave trough or wave crest is then created [32]. On the other hand, Goseberg and colleagues [33][34][35] were able to generate much longer waves with arbitrary waveforms by employing four high-capacity pipe pumps to control the acceleration and deceleration of water in a closed-circuit wave flume. Specifically, waves are actually induced by the produced bidirection current.…”

“…This makes them more suitable for laboratory tsunami research. For instance, some direct applications of these wave generators to the study of tsunami runup are reported in [32,35,38].…”