Ascorbyl coumarates as multifunctional cosmeceutical agents that inhibit melanogenesis and enhance collagen synthesis

Abstract

L-Ascorbic acid (AA) and p-coumaric acid (p-CA) are naturally occurring antioxidants that are known to enhance collagen synthesis and inhibit melanin synthesis, respectively. The purpose of this study was to examine hybrid compounds between AA and p-CA as multifunctional cosmeceutical agents. Ascorbyl 3-p-coumarate (A-3-p-C), ascorbyl 2-p-coumarate (A-2-p-C), and their parent compounds were tested for their effects on cellular melanin synthesis and collagen synthesis. At 100 μM, A-3-p-C and A-2-p-C decreased melanin content of human dermal melanocytes stimulated by L-tyrosine, by 65 and 59%, respectively, compared to 11% inhibition of AA and 70% inhibition of p-CA. A-3-p-C and A-2-p-C were less effective than p-CA but more effective than AA at inhibiting tyrosinase activity. A-3-p-C and A-2-p-C were more effective than p-CA at inhibiting the autoxidation of L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine. At 100-300 μM, A-3-p-C and A-2-p-C augmented collagen release from human dermal fibroblasts by 120-144% and 125-191%, respectively, compared to 126-133% increase of AA and 120-146% increase of p-CA. They increased procollagen type I C-peptide release (A-3-p-C, and A-2-p-C) like AA, and decreased matrix metalloproteinase 1 level (A-2-p-C) like p-CA, implicating that they might regulate collagen metabolism by multiple mechanisms. This study suggests that A-3-p-C and A-2-p-C could be used as multifunctional cosmeceutical agents for the attenuation of certain aspects of skin aging.

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

“…Two active moieties were combined in the structure of the compounds, resulting in ascorbyl 3‐p‐coumarate and ascorbyl 2‐p‐coumarate. Both compounds decreased melanin content in human dermal melanocytes stimulated by L‐tyrosine; they also affected collagen metabolism by multiple mechanisms including increasing collagen release from human dermal fibroblasts, increasing procollagen type I C‐peptide release and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase 1 level .…”

Mushrooms extracts and compounds in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics—A review

“…Recently, Kwak et al (2015) prepared two hybrid compounds containing AA and p-coumaric acid as multifunctional cosmeceutical agents forming ascorbyl-3-pcoumarate (A-3-p-C) and ascorbyl-2-p-coumarate (A-2-p-C). These compounds were tested for their ability to increase collagen synthesis from human dermal fibroblasts.…”

Health and Beauty Cosmeceuticals Industry and Market Expansion in Saudi Arabia

“…It is anticipated that the global cosmeceutical market will hit USD $61 billion by 2020 majorly driven par consumers desired maintain the skin/body care, beauty and resolve the imperfections and anti-ageing [1,29,30,31]. Personal care and beauty industries have the ability to improve Saudi import and export transactions and market (e.g., Banaja Saudi Import Company, Spimaco, Tabuk Pharmaceutical and Biotechnology Manufacturing and Al-Jazeera Pharmaceutical Industries), population income growth, employment and increasing the appetites for quality healthcare and hygiene under the regulation, supervision and coordination Saudi Food and drug Authority (SDFA) and other government stakeholders agencies [6,8,24,25,32,39,40]. The prediction showed that new ingredients will continue to be developed in this sector locally from plant, animal and marine sources [1,2,27,33,41].…”

“…The quality of beauty service delivery and outcome of the new generation of biological products activities and beneficial applications is importance. In such, functional cosmeceutical bioactive ingredients isolation and characterization should be ascertained scientifically valuable for healthcare and beauty [39,40,46]. Development of innovative drug-like products for personal care and beauty requires establishment of infrastructures and facilities to support manufacturing and local employment as well as nurtured legal environment suitable of protecting and securing intellectual property rights (IPR) and propelling market and return of investment [2,5,21,23].…”

“…It is projected that health and beauty specialists will remain the leading distribution channel up to 2019, ahead of beauty specialist retailers shops, care centers and pharmacies for specialized/branded personal care and beauty products [40,41,47,48]. This is expected to be due to the wide selection of the latest products available ahead of other distribution channels.…”