Mushrooms extracts and compounds in cosmetics, cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics—A review

Abstract

a b s t r a c tThe cosmetic industry is constantly in search of ingredients from natural sources because of their competitive effectiveness and lower toxicity effects. Mushrooms have been an important part of our diet for years and are now finding their way as cosmetic ingredients, either as cosmeceutical or as nutricosmetics. The present review focuses on the most relevant activities of mushroom extracts, as well as on their bioactive compounds, which make them interesting ingredients for cosmetic formulations. Mushroom extracts, as well as their bioactive metabolites, revealed anti-tyrosinase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activity. Emphasis was also given to their important anti-oxidant, antimicrobial and antiinflammatory potential, topics largely studied by numerous authors, making them very versatile and multi-functional cosmetic ingredients. Some of the bioactive compounds and the mechanism responsible for the activities ascribed to mushrooms were highlighted. Other activities were identified as needing to be further studied in order to identify the major compounds contributing to the target activity, as well as their mechanisms of action. Based on the above findings, mushroom extracts, as well as their bioactive metabolites, constitute important ingredients that can help to combat aging, reduce the severity of inflammatory skin disease and correct hyperpigmentation disorders. These findings and claims must be correctly supported by clinical trials and in vivo studies.

Bioactive potential of the wild mushroom Astraeus hygrometricus in South-west India

“…Bioactive potential of wild mushrooms are increasingly recognised owing to a wide range of properties like radical-scavenging, antimicrobial, anticancer, antidiabetes, hepatoprotective, cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic potentials (Lindequist et al 2005; Biswas et al 2011b; Kalogeropoulos et al 2013; Shameem et al 2015; Smith et al 2015; Taofiq et al 2016). Recently, mushroom-based antioxidants have attracted wide attention worldwide against synthetic antioxidants (e.g.…”

The potential of Ganoderma lucidum extracts as bioactive ingredients in topical formulations, beyond its nutritional benefits

“…Kim et al (2016) were able to identify a bioactive compound, ganodermanondiol, which suppressed the expression of tyrosinase-related protein (TRP-1, TRP-2) and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) thereby inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. Tyrosinase inhibitors have shown to be effective ingredients towards skin lightening, and among the bioactive compounds found in mushrooms, phenolics have been reported as the ones that contribute most significantly to their antityrosinase activity (Taofiq et al, 2016a). Therefore, the ethanolic extract studied in the present work can be further exploited as a tyrosinase inhibitor to reduce the severity of hyperpigmentation and decrease melanin biosynthesis, partly due to the registered amount on phenolic acids.…”

“…This term is an interphase between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals since they are products formulated with bioactive ingredients, topically applied on the skin to produce a medical drug-like benefit, while also improving skin structure and function (Taofiq et al, 2016a). The use of bioactive products such as vitamins, peptides, phenolic compounds, polyhydroxy acids, obtained from plant, mushroom and other natural matrices, as cosmeceutical ingredients, have received increased attention because of their multifunctional benefits on skin (e.g.…”

“…These products have all been used to suppress the severity of hyperpigmentation, to brighten skin appearance and prevent aging effects, and to protect skin against UV radiation (Taofiq et al, 2016a). Even though the individual contribution of their constituents needs to be established, there are reports claiming that terpenes such as monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes have potential to enhance compound penetration across the skin by decreasing skin barrier resistance of the stratum corneum (Lane, 2013).…”

“…The use of G. lucidum bioactive extracts in the design of cosmeceutical formulations for topical application is receiving special attention. It is supported by existing reports on their power as tyrosinase inhibitors, inflammatory mediator suppressors and as photoprotective agents, which makes them multifunctional ingredients that can be used to control hyperpigmentation, suppressing skin inflammatory diseases and preventing skin photoaging (Taofiq et al, 2016a(Taofiq et al, , 2016cWu et al, 2016). Because of the above mentioned interesting properties, several mushroom extracts and their bioactive components are either presently used or patented to be used as cosmetics ingredients .…”