Assessment of Human Skin Gene Expression by Different Blends of Plant Extracts with Implications to Periorbital Skin Aging

Abstract

Since the skin is the major protective barrier of the body, it is affected by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Environmental influences such as ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, pollution or dry/cold air are involved in the generation of radical oxygen species (ROS) and impact skin aging and dermal health. Assessment of human skin gene expression and other biomarkers including epigenetic factors are used to evaluate the biological/molecular activities of key compounds in cosmetic formulas. The objective of this study was to quantify human gene expression when epidermal full-thickness skin equivalents were exposed to: (a) a mixture of betaine, pentylene glycol, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Rhodiola rosea root extract (BlendE) for antioxidant, skin barrier function and oxidative stress (with hydrogen peroxide challenge); and (b) a mixture of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract and Schisandra chinensis fruit extract (BlendIP) for various biomarkers and microRNA analysis. For BlendE, several antioxidants, protective oxidative stress biomarkers and many skin barrier function parameters were significantly increased. When BlendE was evaluated, the negative impact of the hydrogen peroxide was significantly reduced for the matrix metalloproteinases (MMP 3 and MMP 12), the skin aging and oxidative stress biomarkers, namely FBN2, ANXA1 and HGF. When BlendIP was tested for cell proliferation and dermal structural components to enhance the integrity of the skin around the eyes: 8 growth factors, 7 signaling, 7 structural/barrier function and 7 oxidative stress biomarkers were significantly increased. Finally, when BlendIP was tested via real-time RT-PCR for microRNA expression: miR-146a, miR-22, miR155, miR16 and miR21 were all significantly increased over control levels. Therefore, human skin gene expression studies are important tools to assess active ingredient compounds such as plant extract blends to advance dermal hypotheses toward validating cosmetic formulations with botanical molecules.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product

“…Additionally, other authors have shown that lignins present in S. chinensis extracts, such as deoxyschisandrin and Schizandrin B, can block Cox-2 cyclooxygenase, IL-6 interleukin and the IL-18 interleukin signaling pathway, thereby protecting skin cells from UVB radiation damage and greatly reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Additionally, Schizandrin B may regulate the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD), significantly reduce the production of many inflammatory factors, and lower the expression level of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), thus inhibiting the collagen degradation process [35][36][37][38].…”

History of Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

“…There are two published studies (by the same group) that demonstrate its efficacy in the prevention of chronological skin aging-it was proposed that a decrease in cell turnover time produces this effect [61,62]. In another study looking at cell proliferation and dermal structural components, an increase in the production of growth factors, signaling molecules, structural biomarkers, and oxidative stress indicators was observed for a blend of Narcissus tazetta bulb extract and Schisandra chinensis fruit extract [63].…”

Mechanism of action and therapeutic effects of oxidative stress and stem cell-based materials in skin aging: Current evidence and future perspectives

“…For example, citrus sinensis peel extract (CSPE) nanoformulation ( Amer et al, 2021 ), extracts and bioactive compounds derived from seaweed ( Pangestuti et al, 2021 ), and atractyligenin ( Xuan et al, 2019 ) were reported to suppress ROS by activating the MAPK pathway. As such, CSPE nanoformulations ( Amer et al, 2021 ), BlendE, BlendIP ( Namkoong et al, 2018 ), and tannic acid ( Daré et al, 2020 ) are associated with either an increase in antioxidative enzyme expression or a decrease in ROS generation. Second, the regulation of inflammatory responses is beneficial to anti-aging therapy, such as that with a mixture of marigold and rosemary extracts, CSPE nanoformulation ( Amer et al, 2021 ), bamboo leaf flavonoids (BLF) ( Gu et al, 2022 ), and ursolic acid ( Samivel et al, 2020 ).…”