Assessment of SWAN and WAVEWATCH-III models regarding the directional wave spectra estimates based on Eastern Black Sea measurements

Amarouche, Khalid; Akpınar, Adem; Rybalko, Aleksandra; Myslenkov, Stanislav

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2023.113944

Cited by 18 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 40 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…The accuracy of the model in estimating H m0 may re ect a good accuracy in the total energy spectrum of the bi-modal waves, but it can never indicate accuracy in the spectrum as a function of the frequency, direction, and energy of the peaks, nor accuracy in the multimodal energy spectrum. The wave model used for developing the directional wave spectra hindcast data is evaluated by (Amarouche et al 2023) based on 14,710 spectral measurements collected over about 11 months on the Utrish coast using a Datawell DWRG-4. Uncertainties related to the spectral wave model are discussed in (Amarouche et al 2023) in terms of the annual and seasonal averaging and also in estimating the individual spectrum shapes.…”

Section: Spectral Data Accuracy and Uncertaintymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The wave model used for developing the directional wave spectra hindcast data is evaluated by (Amarouche et al 2023) based on 14,710 spectral measurements collected over about 11 months on the Utrish coast using a Datawell DWRG-4. Uncertainties related to the spectral wave model are discussed in (Amarouche et al 2023) in terms of the annual and seasonal averaging and also in estimating the individual spectrum shapes. The average wave spectra estimated by the SWAN model show a good accuracy compared to the measurements, with a slight overestimation of ~ 10% in spectral energy between 0.13 and 0.17 Hz.…”

Section: Spectral Data Accuracy and Uncertaintymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The spectral wave data used to perform the present study was developed using a SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) model (Booij et al 1999;Ris et al 1999). The model was spatially calibrated for the Black Sea and the Sea of Azov based on satellite altimeter and buoy measurements (Amarouche et al 2021b), and validated against 14750 spectral measurements collected at the Utrish coast during a period of ~ 11 months (Amarouche et al 2023) because the model's accuracy in estimating the wave spectrum and an awareness of the model output uncertainty is critical for a reliable assessment of the spectral wave climate.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Long-term spectral wave climate in the Black Sea based on directional wave spectra

Amarouche

Akpınar

2023

Preprint

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Directional wave spectra describe complex sea states in frequency and directional domains and provide more detailed information than the bulk wave parameters. Spectral wave informations are important for the design of ships and offshore structures. Using hourly directional wave spectra hindcasted for a period of 42 years between 1979 and 2020, long-term spectral wave climate in the Black and Azov Seas was assessed. To determine the climatic wave spectrum, variance densities are averaged over the frequencies and directions for annual and seasonal, monthy scales. Futhermore, The individual wave system observed in each directional wave spectra are determined referring to the independent spectral peak at each observation. The different sea states conditions, including the uni-modal and multi-modal wave systems are classified and analysed; The energy, frequency, and direction of the three first prominent individual wave system peaks are deeply evaluated as a function of the sea state conditions. Occurrences as foction of spectral peak density and directions of the prominent individual wave system peaks are also computed and discussed. The results reveal that multi-modal spectra are more frequent in most regions, although the highest peak density values and lowest peak frequencies were observed within the wave spectra of uni-modal sea states. The spectral peak densities, frequencies, and directions depend both on the number of wave systems in the wave spectrum and on the geographic location. The first peaks in the wave spectra are mostly derived from two dominant directions and ~ 54% of the peaks had a density greater than 2 m2/Hz. In contrast, the second and third peaks in the wave spectra are typically derived from three or more dominant directions and rarely exceed a density of 2 m2/Hz.

show abstract

Section: Spectral Data Accuracy and Uncertaintymentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Spectral Data Accuracy and Uncertaintymentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Long-term spectral wave climate in the Black Sea based on directional wave spectra

Amarouche

Akpınar

2023

Preprint

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The Utrish buoy data of this study can be regarded as a specific case because of very short distances from the coast. Attempts to assess the quality of wave models [25][26][27][28] with this data showed a deficiency of the models and the necessity of special tuning of both wind and wave blocks for the near-shore conditions. Wave modeling in inner water bodies also faces these problems [29,30].…”

Section: Of 26mentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Buoy Measurements at Short Fetches in the Black Sea Nearshore: Mixed Sea and Energy Fluxes

Rybalko¹,

Myslenkov²,

Badulin³

2023

Preprint

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Wave buoy measurements were carried out near the north-eastern Black Sea coast at the natural reserve Utrish in 2020-2021. Totally about 11 months of data records were collected during two stages of the experiment at 600 and 1500 meters offshore and depths of 18 and 42 meters. The measured waves propagate almost exclusively from the seaward directions. Generally, the waves do not follow the local wind directions, thus, implying a mixed sea state. Nevertheless, dependencies of dimensionless wave heights on periods based on the wind speed scaling appear to be close to previously established empirical laws for the wind-driven seas. The results of the wave turbulence theory are applied for estimates of spectral energy fluxes and their correspondence to the energy flux from the turbulent wind pulsations. These estimates are consistent with today’s understanding of wind-wave interaction. It is shown that the main fraction of the wind energy flux goes to the direct Kolmogorov-Zakharov cascade to high wave frequencies and then to dissipation in small scales. Less than 1% of the wind energy flux is directed to low frequency band (the so-called inverse Kolmogorov-Zakharov cascade), thus, providing wave energy growth.

show abstract

“…The former including buoys, ships and ocean stations that have a precise observation but with a few shortcomings such as spatial-temporal sparse observations, small coverage and high observation cost. Therefore, field observation data especially buoy data is commonly used as reference data to evaluate satellite or model data [1,2]. The latter involves altimeter, synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and ocean wave spectrometer [3], which have the advantages of large-area synchronous observation and fast data update.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Accuracy Evaluation of Ocean Wave Spectra from Sentinel-1 SAR Based on Buoy Observations and ERA5 Data

Sun,

Yang,

Cui

2024

Remote Sensing

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Doppler mis-registrations in azimuth can lead to ocean waves shorter than a specific wavelength being undetectable by SAR. In order to evaluate the actual ocean wave observation ability, the accuracy of Sentinel-1 SAR ocean wave spectra from January 2016 to December 2021 is evaluated by comparisons to NDBC buoys, ERA5 wave height, and CMEMS buoys. The results compared with NDBC show that the spectral shape of Sentinel-1 SAR ocean wave spectra is accurate, while the spectral values need to be improved. The wave spectra of Sentinel-1 have the best observations in season autumn. The comparison results of total wave height show the RMSE and bias are 0.91 m and −0.52 m for the comparisons to NDBC buoy wave spectra data, 0.93 m and −0.68 m for the comparison to ERA5 wave height data, and 0.9 m and −0.35 m for the comparisons to CMEMS buoy data. The comparison results of wave height in different wind speeds and areas shows that the accuracy of Sentinel-1 wave mode data is relatively good in the open ocean located in middle and low latitude area under the medium wind speed, while those are relatively poor in high latitude areas or the areas with excessively high or low wind speed.

show abstract

Assessment of SWAN and WAVEWATCH-III models regarding the directional wave spectra estimates based on Eastern Black Sea measurements

Cited by 18 publications

References 40 publications

Long-term spectral wave climate in the Black Sea based on directional wave spectra

Long-term spectral wave climate in the Black Sea based on directional wave spectra

Wave Buoy Measurements at Short Fetches in the Black Sea Nearshore: Mixed Sea and Energy Fluxes

Accuracy Evaluation of Ocean Wave Spectra from Sentinel-1 SAR Based on Buoy Observations and ERA5 Data

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About