Automated Analysis of Ocean Surface Directional Wave Spectra

Hanson, Jeffrey L.; Phillips, O. M.

doi:10.1175/1520-0426(2001)018<0277:aaoosd>2.0.co;2

Cited by 262 publications

(167 citation statements)

References 15 publications

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“…Data covering the period of 2005 were chosen for analysis. Since ocean waves are generally mixed with wind waves and swell (Chen et al, 2002), the windÁwave components were separated by the spectral partitioning and windÁwave identification technique (Hanson and Phillips, 2001). In the case of wind waves, the relationship between the normalised significant wave height and period (H Ã ¼ gH s =u 2 Ãa and T Ã ¼ gT s =u Ãa ) could be well described by Toba's 3/2 power law (Toba, 1972):…”

Section: Turbulent Dissipation Rate In Wave-breaking Layermentioning

confidence: 99%

Gas transfer velocity in the presence of wave breaking

Zhao

2016

Tellus B: Chemical and Physical Meteorology

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A B S T R A C T Wave breaking is known to cause air entrainment and enhancement of the near-surface turbulence. Thus, it intensifies the gas exchange across the airÁsea interface. Based on the combination of the vertical distribution of the turbulence in the wave-affected layer and the breaking wave-energy dissipation rate in the wave-breaking layer, we proposed a composite model for the gas transfer velocity in the presence of wave breaking. The gas transfer velocity was calculated as a function of the air frictional velocity, wave age, and whitecap coverage. The model was validated by the dependences on winds and wave ages by field and laboratory measurements. The results supported the hypothesis that the large uncertainties in the traditional gas transfer velocities based on wind speed alone at moderate-to-high wind speeds can be ascribed to the neglect of the windÁwave effect, which is mainly attributed to the whitecap coverage as a function of the windÁsea Reynolds number.

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Section: Turbulent Dissipation Rate In Wave-breaking Layermentioning

confidence: 99%

Gas transfer velocity in the presence of wave breaking

Zhao

2016

Tellus B: Chemical and Physical Meteorology

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“…Our partitioning of the ADCP-derived directional wave spectra was carried out using the software routine APL-WAVES (http://www.subchem.com/waves), which employs the methodology described by Hanson and Phillips (2001). A commercially sold software product developed in MATLAB (http://www.mathworks.com) Version 6.5, APL-WAVES is designed to identify portions of a directional wave spectra that are due to the locally generated "wind sea" and to swells from distant sources.…”

Section: Wave Spectra Partitioning a Wind Sea Identificationmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…From the program's output, we generated a MATLAB binary file (wave_statistics.mat) with variables describing the statistical properties of the overall wave field, the wind sea, and the dominant and secondary swell systems. All variables were computed as defined in Hanson and Phillips (2001). A brief description of each variable is provided in Appendix 1.…”

Section: B Output Of Spectral Partitioningmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In the study described here, we have partitioned directional wavee spectra, derived from bottom-mounted ADCP measurements at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO) south of Martha's Vineyard, MA, into dominant swell and locally generated wind-wave components. The partitioning was carried out following the method of Hanson and Phillips (2001) using an exploratory approach. As part of tthis approach, we assessed the validity of the ADCP-derived wave spectra by comparing them with one-dimensional wavee spectra derived from laser altimeter measurements.…”

Section: Appendix 1: Description Of Output Variablesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…This comparison identified a frequency range over which the ADCP-derived wave field may be suspeect. We also carried out a series of sensitivity tests in which we evaluated how the results of wave partitioning according to the Hanson and Phillips (2001) method is influenced by varying the parameters required to implement the method. In this report, we describe and assess the data sources used in our study, outline the methods employed for wave spectra partitioning and describe partitioning results.…”

Section: Appendix 1: Description Of Output Variablesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Extracting wind sea and swell from directional wave spectra derived from a bottom-mounted ADCP

Churchill¹,

Plueddemann²,

Faluotico³

2006

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Recent advances in processing velocity data from bottom-mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs) offer the capability of partitioning directional wave spectra of surface wave height in order to separate the locally generated wind waves from incoming swells arriving from remote sources. In the study described here, we have partitioned directional wave spectra, derived from bottom-mounted ADCP measurements at the Martha's Vineyard Coastal Observatory (MVCO) south of Martha's Vineyard, MA, into dominant swell and locally generated wind-wave components. The partitioning was carried out following the method of Hanson and Phillips (2001). Because this is a relatively untested method, especially when applied to ADCP data, it was implemented by an exploratory, rather than a routine, approach. As part of this approach, we assessed the validity of the ADCP-derived wave spectra by comparing them with one-dimensional wave spectra derived from laser altimeter measurements. As will be shown, this comparison identified a frequency range over which the ADCP-derived wave field may be suspect. We also carried out a series of sensitivity tests in which we evaluated how the results of wave partitioning according to the Hanson and Phillips (2001) method is influenced by varying the parameters required to implement the method. In this report, we describe and assess the data sources used in our study, outline the methods employed for wave spectra partitioning and describe partitioning results (focusing on the sensitivity of these results to the partitioning parameters).

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Tracking the attenuation and nonbreaking dissipation of swells using altimeters

et al. 2016

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A method for systematically tracking swells across oceanic basins is developed by taking advantage of high-quality data from space-borne altimeters and wave model output. The evolution of swells is observed over large distances based on 202 swell events with periods ranging from 12 to 18 s. An empirical attenuation rate of swell energy of about 4 3 10 27 m 21 is estimated using these observations, and the nonbreaking energy dissipation rates of swells far away from their generating areas are also estimated using a point source model. The resulting acceptance range of nonbreaking dissipation rates is 22.5 to 5.0 3 10 27 m 21 , which corresponds to a dissipation e-folding scales of at least 2000 km for steep swells, to almost infinite for small-amplitude swells. These resulting rates are consistent with previous studies using in-situ and synthetic aperture radar (SAR) observations. The frequency dispersion and angular spreading effects during swell propagation are discussed by comparing the results with other studies, demonstrating that they are the two dominant processes for swell height attenuation, especially in the near field. The resulting dissipation rates from these observations can be used as a reference for ocean engineering and wave modeling, and for related studies such as air-sea and wind-wave-turbulence interactions.

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Automated Analysis of Ocean Surface Directional Wave Spectra

Cited by 262 publications

References 15 publications

Gas transfer velocity in the presence of wave breaking

Gas transfer velocity in the presence of wave breaking

Extracting wind sea and swell from directional wave spectra derived from a bottom-mounted ADCP

Tracking the attenuation and nonbreaking dissipation of swells using altimeters

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