Bedform Dynamics in a Rip Current

Thorpe, Antony; Miles, Jon; Masselink, Gerd; Russell, Paul

doi:10.2112/si70-118.1

Cited by 5 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 17 publications

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“…() correlated an alongshore increase in wave height to increases in grain size, and measurements made by Thorpe et al . () described sediments found in active rip channels that were significantly coarser than those found on an adjacent intertidal bar.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Grain‐size distributions on high‐energy sandy beaches and their relation to wave dissipation

2017

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Grain size and sorting represent two key parameters when characterizing sediments or modelling beach morphology and sediment transport. Traditionally, an average value for grain size or sorting is often assumed for the entire area, determined from only a few sediment samples, ignoring any spatial (or temporal) variability in sediment characteristics. This contribution uses a data set of physical surface sediment samples from 53 beach locations around the south‐west peninsula of the United Kingdom, in addition to bi‐monthly, high spatial resolution (mean 240 samples) digital grain‐size surveys from a high‐energy, oceanic, sandy beach (Perranporth, North Cornwall). Systematic spatial variations in grain size and sorting were consistently observed in the seaward direction across the intertidal zone of sandy beaches, with grain‐sizes coarsening and sorting improving by up to 51·7% and 64·3%, respectively. This variability was deterministically related to the time‐averaged, antecedent‐adjusted energy dissipated by breaking waves, with the observed maximum grain‐size and sorting values correlating with the location of peak wave energy dissipation (r2 = 0·998, P < 0·01).

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Grain‐size distributions on high‐energy sandy beaches and their relation to wave dissipation

2017

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“…Megaripples have been identified under both breaking (DavidsonArnott and Greenwood, 1976;Hay and Wilson, 1994) and non-breaking waves (Vincent et al, 1999), in a bar trough (Gallagher et al, 1998) and in rip channels (Aagaard et al, 1997;Thorpe et al, 2014). Clarke and Werner (2004) undertook remote video observations at Scripps Beach, California over a 1-year period and suggested that megaripples always exist in the surf zone provided that ambient hydrodynamic conditions are not altered too rapidly.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%