Biomechanical Profile of the Muscles of the Upper Limbs in Sport Climbers

Abstract

Introduction. Studies have demonstrated an important role of muscle strength and endurance in climbing. However, little research has explored the speed parameters of the muscles of climbers. This study aimed to evaluate biomechanical indices of the functional status of the upper limbs in climbers. Material and methods. Group G1 (n = 3) were athletes who were able to climb 8c+/9a climbing routes using the red-point style and 7c+/8b routes with the on-sight style. Group G2 (n = 5) comprised climbers who were able to climb 8a/8b+ and 7b+/8a routes, respectively. Maximum muscle torques were measured in the elbow and arm flexors and extensors. Hand grip tests, dynamometric arm strength tests, and laboratory endurance tests were conducted. Results. Strength parameters in both joints were similar in the two groups of climbers. Maximum absolute values of hand grip, crimp grip, and global arm force in hanging did not differ between the groups. Furthermore, significant differences were found for relative indices (from circa 3% to circa 12%). No significant differences were recorded for the parameters of muscle speed. Furthermore, no significant effect of the subjects’ skill level on the results of endurance tests was found. The results obtained in the groups of athletes (G1, G2, and G1+2) were compared with the values recorded in a control group of students (GC, n = 48). Conclusions. Elite climbers were found to have an advantage over the controls only in strength and muscular endurance. No significant differences were observed in the results of speed tests in the muscles of the athletes and students examined in the study. The climbers (G1 and G2) differed in the strength potential of their muscles, but only when relative force indices were analysed. No differences were found in the biomechanical variables of speed and muscular endurance. Conventional tests are typically not a valuable diagnostic tool for the evaluation of climbers.

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

“…As stated in the preceding section, this study was governed by the review of literature as the assessment of International journals relevant and comprehensive, like Q4 Scopus journal, Sport Discus, Google Scholar, Web of Science (WOS) de ISI Thomson Reuters, Latindex, Scopus, Scielo, Dialnet, and Google Books). Rock climbing movement was grouped into various positions, including the arm, the weight distribution between the arm and leg, foot position on the grip, posture with rock climbing board, install a safety position, and the position falls [35], [37]- [39]. The result of this stage in table 3 below (appendix 1).…”

Body Composition, Anthropometric Parameters, and Strength-Endurance Characteristics of Sport Climbers: A Systematic Review

“…Moreover, the study of Fryer et al (8) showed higher MVC values in boulderers achieving 6B1 to 7B1 RP than in lead climbers reaching 7a1 to 8a RP (8). Both boulderers achieving $7B (22) and lead climbers (38) presented greater handgrip strength parameters than control subjects. Endurance characteristics of sport climbers and control subjects regarding climbing-specific endurance test (force time integral) and pull-ups are presented in Table 5.…”

“…Moreover, the study of Fryer et al (8) showed higher MVC values in boulderers achieving 6B+ to 7B+ RP than in lead climbers reaching 7a+ to 8a RP ( 8 ). Both boulderers achieving ≥7B ( 22 ) and lead climbers ( 38 ) presented greater handgrip strength parameters than control subjects.…”

Strength and Conditioning Considerations for Speed Climbing

“…Maximal strength training to develop the high force capabilities of the shoulder adductors, forearm flexors, and synergistic musculature can be used. Training exercises such as the weighted pull-ups, bench press, machine-based variations (78), and weighted hang board training for the finger and forearm muscles are appropriate to improve their function (43). These exercises, when prescribed appropriately, share the common adaptation of increased neural drive and force production (1) (Table 4).…”

“…Force values in the region of 1000 N have been reported for dynamic jumping techniques used in speed climbing (14). Maximal strength training is designed to overload the following: the triple extension movement pattern seen during the ascent phase of speed climbing (34), the concentric pulling action of the shoulder adductors (78), and forearm flexor muscles responsible for gripping holds (90).…”