Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing

Watts, Phillip B.; España-Romero, Vanesa; Ostrowski, Megan L.; Jensen, Randall L.

doi:10.1080/14763141.2019.1635636

Cited by 8 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 11 publications

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“…After synthesizing all materials used, it was viewed that an extensive number of authors shortly defined climbing movements based on four dimensions; namely arm position, weight distribution between limbs (lower and upper limbs), the link resides between the vertical axis and the wall of the body, and the feet location toward the grip [29]. Given these four climbing movements latterly highlighted, the rock-climbing movement in this study was also analyzed following the previous studies by focusing on the four positions mostly acknowledged in climbing movements and as well as installing a safety position [32], [34], [36]. While developing the instrument, consultation and discourse upon the crude instruments were executed with experts respectively.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Ilham¹,

Tomoliyus²

2021

saj

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Background: The speed world record (WR) performance is an achievement achieved by athletes in the competitive rock-climbing category, where the athlete must complete the climbing route on a standard artificial climbing wall with a height of 15m in the shortest possible time. Purpose: This study aimed to construct and validate an observational instrument to assess technical execution in lead climbing. The instrument developed can be used to assess progress to achieve the important aspects of climbing movement methods. Design / methodology / approach: Importantly, the construction of its validity and reliability was conducted in four stages. The first stage was a literature review on the construction of the observational instrument. In the second stage, the instrument's construction was established. The content validity coefficient was determined in the third stage using Aiken's V and 7 experts with various qualifications, including the level of understanding, appropriateness of the words, and the relevance of the statement with a grading scale of 0-10. The instrument's internal validity was calculated using 20 climbers and was quantitatively tested using the product-moment correlation. In the fourth stage, instrument reliability was determined using Cronbach's Alpha reliability test. Results showed that the observational instrument has content validity with optimal internal value as well as satisfactory reliability. Conclusion: Observational instruments were valid and reliable; therefore, they can be used to assess technical execution for novice climbers in lead climbing. It allows instructors, coaches, and teachers to assess the technical execution of novice climbers specifically in lead climbing.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Ilham¹,

Tomoliyus²

2021

saj

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“…The generalized eta squared (η G 2) is reported as a measure of effect size with values of .02 as small, .13 as medium and .26 as large effect [46]. These statistical analyses were run using JASP [47].…”

Section: Plos Onementioning

confidence: 99%

Visual control during climbing: Variability in practice fosters a proactive gaze pattern

et al. 2022

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In climbing, the visual system is confronted with a dual demand: controlling ongoing movement and searching for upcoming movement possibilities. The aims of the present research were: (i) to investigate the effect of different modes of practice on how learners deal with this dual demand; and (ii) to analyze the extent this effect may facilitate transfer of learning to a new climbing route. The effect of a constant practice, an imposed schedule of variations and a self-controlled schedule of variations on the gaze behaviors and the climbing fluency of novices were compared. Results showed that the constant practice group outperformed the imposed variability group on the training route and the three groups climbing fluency on the transfer route did not differ. Analyses of the gaze behaviors showed that the constant practice group used more online gaze control during the last session whereas the imposed variability group relied on a more proactive gaze control. This last gaze pattern was also used on the transfer route by the imposed variability group. Self-controlled variability group displayed more interindividual differences in gaze behaviors. These findings reflect that learning protocols induce different timing for gaze patterns that may differently facilitate adaptation to new climbing routes.

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“…Performance assessment N o studies body worn [15]- [17], [28]- [39] [14]- [16], [28]- [33], [35]- [45] 21 embedded [46]- [49] [50]-[60] 14 external [40], [46], [61] [30], [39], [40], [55], [60]- [67] 13…”

Section: Activity Recognitionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…• spatial indicators (geometric index of entropy, planar/lateral COM displacement) [62], [63] [30], [37]- [39], [41], [55], [65]- [67] • temporal indicators (ascent duration, average plateau duration, mobile time, immobile time, immobility-to-mobility ratio, immobility ratio) [28], [30], [33], [37], [38], [40], [57], [61] • spatial-temporal indicators (jerk coefficient of hip trajectory/orientation) [14], [30], [35], [40] [32], [33], [37], [38], [42], [43], [47], [61] Exploration…”

Section: Fluencymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…of body mvt. coordination patterns [64] fluency [30], [38], [41], [62], [65]- [67] motion capture system fluency [39], [55], [63] hold-limb contact performance [ pressure sensor (insole), accelerometer (on top of a shoe) speed, hold-limb contact performance [44] pressure sensor (insole) hold-limb contact performance [55], [56] capacitive sensors (holds) hold-limb contact performance [38], [57] force transducers (holds) hold-limb contact performance [50]- [52], [54], [59], [60] load cells (holds) hold-limb contact performance [58] body-worn IMUs (wrists, feet, hip) traction, immobility, hold change, postural regulation, hold gripping HC exploration index [16], [32] [30], [33], [34] var. of body mvt.…”

Section: ) Explorationmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Sensor-Based Activity Recognition and Performance Assessment in Climbing: A Review

2022

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In the past decades, a number of technological developments made it possible to continuously collect various types of sport activity data in an unobtrusive way. Machine learning and analytical methods have been applied to flows of sensor data to predict the conducted sport activity as well as to calculate key performance indicators. In that scenario, researchers started to be interested in leveraging pervasive information technologies for sport climbing, thus allowing, in day-to-day climbing practice, the realization of systems for automatic assessment of a climber's performance, detection of injury risk factors, and virtual coaching. This article surveys recent research works on the recognition of climbing activities and the evaluation of climbing performance indicators, where data have been acquired with accelerometers, cameras, force sensors, and other types of sensors. We describe the main types of sensors and equipment adopted for data acquisition, the techniques used to extract relevant features from sensor data, and the methods that have been proposed to identify the activities performed by a climber and to calculate key performance indicators. We also present a classification taxonomy of climbing activities and climbing performance indicators with the aim to unify the existing work and facilitate comparison of different methods. Moreover, open problems that call for new approaches and solutions are here discussed. We conclude that there is considerable scope for further work, particularly in the application of recognition techniques to problems involving different climbing activities. We hope that this survey will assist in the translation of research effort into intelligent environments that climbers will benefit from.

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Change in geometric entropy with repeated ascents in rock climbing

Cited by 8 publications

References 11 publications

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Visual control during climbing: Variability in practice fosters a proactive gaze pattern

Sensor-Based Activity Recognition and Performance Assessment in Climbing: A Review

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