Clinical efficacy and reflectance confocal microscopy monitoring in moderate‐severe skin aging treated with a polyvinyl gel containing retinoic and glycolic acid: An assessor‐blinded 1‐month study proof‐of‐concept trial

Abstract

Background: Retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids are commonly used topically as antiaging substances. Current medical devices contain retinoic acid (0.02%) and glycolic acid (4%) in a polyvinyl gel vehicle (R-G gel). There are still no clinical data nor objective evaluation of the anti-aging effect this product has in the short term. Aims: To assess in a prospective 1-month, noncomparative, primary outcome assessor-blinded proof-of-concept trial the clinical efficacy, tolerability, and the skin cells modification (evaluated through reflectance confocal microscopy; RCM), of R-G gel in skin aging treatment. Methods: Twelve women with moderate-severe skin aging (Glogau score ≥ 3) were enrolled. The product was applied on the face three times a week for 4 weeks. Study visits were performed at baseline and after 2 and 4 weeks. RCM evaluation was performed openly at each visit using Viva Scope 1500 to evaluate the left cheek (5 mm below the zygomatic process). Results: Eleven subjects concluded the trial. At baseline, the Glogau score was 3.4 ± 0.5 and decreased significantly at week 4 (P = .0001; ANOVA test) to 2.7 ± 0.6. Significant reductions of dark spots (−40%) and severity of wrinkles (−12%) were observed at week 4 compared to baseline. The RCM score improved significantly at week 4 with the recovery of the polygonal keratinocytes pattern as the central aspect observed. Conclusion: The gel containing retinoic acid and glycolic acid showed significant improvements of the clinical signs of severe skin aging with a concomitant improvement of epidermal and dermal structures evaluated via RCM.

Trifarotene: A Current Review and Perspectives in Dermatology

“…Significant reductions of dark spots (-40%) and severity of wrinkles (−12%) were observed at week 4 compared to baseline. At the end of the study, ultrastructural analyses performed by reflectance confocal microscopy also highlighted significant improvements, with the recovery of the polygonal keratinocytes pattern as the main observed aspect [90]. Trifarotene, acting as a RAR-γ agonist, could activate the same pathways induced by ATRA, eliciting antiaging activity (Figure 3).…”

Design and Evaluation of Complex Polypeptide-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles for Improving Facial Wrinkles in Different Areas

“…Currently, the anti-ageing active substances used in cosmetics mainly include retinoids, antioxidants, polypeptides, and other functional additives [ 5 , 6 , 7 ]. It was necessary to highlight that those anti-wrinkle polypeptides have been widely applied in high-end brand skin care products, due to their high safety, significant effects, and low dosage [ 7 ].…”

Application of a Reflectance Confocal Microscopy Imaging Analysis Score for the Evaluation of Non‐Melanogenic Changes in Male Photoaged Skin

“…In this context, we highlight biophysical and skin imaging techniques which are noninvasive methods used to assess the efficacy of cosmetics and medicines on the skin (6,8,9,15). In this respect, the reflectance confocal laser microscope (RCM) is a very interesting device for noninvasive skin analysis at a quasi-histologic resolution that allows the study of different skin changes such as those due to the photoaging process and can be employed to show how the use of products can change skin structures such as epidermis morphology, collagen or the shape of papillae (8,18,19). This device can also be useful to evaluate quantitative and qualitative differences in the structure and morphology of the photoaged skin by comparing photoprotection habits (6,7,20).…”