Clinical study of Asian skin changes after application of a sunscreen formulation containing grape seed extract

Abstract

Background Asian skin undergoing chronological aging, accumulates signs of photoaging mediated by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Although sunscreens are effective in preventing signs of photoaging, polyphenol‐rich extracts, for example, grape seed extract (GSE) can provide additional protection through the broad spectrum of biological activities. Aims To access the effectiveness of a sunscreen formulation containing GSE as an important cosmetic ingredient for the improvement of age‐related changes in Asian skin using noninvasive evaluation techniques. Methods Noninvasive methods were used to assess changes in the biophysical properties corresponding to aging signs including melanin and erythema indices, color parameters of the CIE L*a*b* system, elasticity, and hydration of the forearm skin before and after applying the sunscreen with GSE. In addition, to confirm the effectiveness of the tested product, we compared it with benchmark sunscreen, and a cream base containing either GSE or UV filters. Results Twice‐daily application of sunscreen containing 3% GSE significantly reduced the level of melanin and erythema and improved overall skin tone. The hydration was drastically increased after 3 h of wearing formulation and was maintained relatively high for 5 h. Skin elasticity parameters, including Young's modulus, retraction time, and viscoelasticity, improved in participants of all age categories (35–59 years). Moreover, sunscreen with GSE, as acclaimed by participants, improved overall skin appearance. Conclusions The balancing potential of GSE on the skin, combined with the photoprotective properties of UV filters demonstrated an added value as an anti‐aging agent and proved efficacy for both photo‐ and chronologically‐aged Asian skin.

Chemical and mechanical accelerated and long‐term stability evaluation of sunscreen formulation containing grape seed extract

“…4 Due to the antioxidant properties, catechins established themselves as valueadded components of sunscreen formulations demonstrating several important properties, including the photostabilization of UV filters, increasing sun protection performance, as well as improving aging skin properties. 5,6 However, the stability of catechins depends on several factors: temperature, pH, and UVR, which makes it difficult to ensure their effectiveness in cosmetic products upon long-term storage. 7,8 In addition, emulsions are usually thermodynamically unstable and decompose over time into two immiscible phases.…”

“…Grape seeds, derived from winemaking waste, are a resource rich in polyphenols, especially monomeric catechins, as (+)‐catechin (С) and (−)‐epicatechin (EC) 4 . Due to the antioxidant properties, catechins established themselves as value‐added components of sunscreen formulations demonstrating several important properties, including the photostabilization of UV filters, increasing sun protection performance, as well as improving aging skin properties 5,6 …”

Correlation between sensory and instrumental characterization of developed sunscreens containing grape seed extract and a commercial product

“…Grape seed extract containing polyphenols with antioxidant properties has been reported to broaden absorption spectra to the visible region and to boost sun protection factor (SPF) values [8]. Moreover, in our recent study, sunscreen containing GSE has been clinically proven to improve the tone, elasticity, and hydration of the Asian aged skin [9].…”