Garden Series. Burial Pantsuit Half-Scale Prototype Sherry Haar, Kansas State University Green burial, halfscale, natural dyeContext, Purpose and Background. My scholarship with natural dyes is merging with textile and apparel design for green burials. I was introduced to green burial garments while participating in the Halfscale Forum for Creative Patternmaking initiated through Cornell University. Thus, this design addressed the Halfscale Forum parameters while exploring garment and textile design for green burial. The Halfscale Forum theme, Inversion, called for viewing the body and patternmaking from atypical points of departure, seams and style lines. I elected to design from the back, supine position wrapping the fabric around the body and limbs with curved seams, shirring, and lacing securing the shape.'Green, or natural burial is a way of caring for the dead with minimal environmental impact that aids in the conservation of natural resources, reduction of carbon emissions, protection of worker health, and the restoration and/or preservation of habitat' (Green Burial Council). Textiles commercially available for green burials include shrouds and wrappings of natural fibers (Michel & Lee, 2017). Michel and Lee (2017) identified three designers of natural burial garments. Pia Interlandi's, Garments for the Grave, are pieces designed for ease of wrapping and encasing body parts. Jae Rhim Lee developed a body suit inserted with fungal culture to assist with the removal of bodily toxins through decomposition. Mark Mitchell created elaborate burial costumes using by-hand techniques on naturally fibered fabrics and yarns. My overarching aims are to explore functional apparel design for burial, biodegradability of fiber and natural dye, and textile design related to regional biodiversity. This design, explored patternmaking from the supine position and textile design using local flora.Process. Starting the design from the back in a supine position, fabric was wrapped around the body using gathers on slits and shirring to maintain a forward motion. The resulting shrug is a one-piece pattern with the sleeves incorporated into the bodice. The pantsuit only has a center back and partial crotch seam. This allows a body to be laid on the fabric and the fabric to wrap from back to front. Ties, interlacings, and casings are used to secure the garment after wrappings are in place. A hood was attached using a facing. A pocket for mementos was placed at the heart.The shrug fabric was colored from regional garden plants, roses, hollyhock, and beard tongue in premordanted silk organza. The bundle was wetted-out and placed in a dark plastic bag and left outdoors for three days to extract the plant color to the fiber. The pantsuit textile design was created by first bundling purple basil in silk dupioni to create a subtle background. The defined plant imagery is from pounding or hammering Plains coreopsis and sweet potato leaf onto the fabric.