Coastal profile evolution at Duck, North Carolina: A cautionary note

Elgar, Steve

doi:10.1029/2000jc000493

Cited by 9 publications

(7 citation statements)

References 12 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…There have been many recent studies on cross‐shore sediment transport that emphasize the importance of the sediment response to nearshore waves and currents because of, for example, higher‐order wave statistics [ Thornton et al , 1996; Gallagher et al , 1998; Ruessink et al , 1998, 2007; Elgar , 2001; Hsu et al , 2006; Elfrink et al , 2006], nonlinear boundary layer processes [e.g., Trowbridge and Young , 1989; Henderson et al , 2004], and the effects of breaking wave turbulence on sediment transport [e.g., Butt et al , 2004; Scott et al , 2009]. These studies have also encouraged a significant amount of research effort toward understanding small‐scale sediment transport processes near and within the surf zone.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…As waves propagate to shallow water, the waveshape and the near‐bed wave velocity time series become nonlinear. The nonlinearity of the waveshape can be quantified by higher‐order wave statistics, such as wave skewness and asymmetry [ Elgar , 2001]. Because bottom sediment transport also responds nonlinearly to the flow forcing (e.g., In the Meyer‐Peter formula, the nondimensionalized bed load transport rate is in proportional to 3/2 power of the nondimensionalized bottom stress), the nonlinear interaction between the wave forcing and sediment response gives net onshore transport [e.g., Drake and Calantoni , 2001; Elgar , 2001; Nielsen and Callaghan , 2003; Hsu and Hanes , 2004].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Sediment transport under wave groups: Relative importance between nonlinear waveshape and nonlinear boundary layer streaming

Hsu

Hanes

2010

J. Geophys. Res.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

[1] Sediment transport under nonlinear waves in a predominately sheet flow condition is investigated using a two-phase model. Specifically, we study the relative importance between the nonlinear waveshape and nonlinear boundary layer streaming on cross-shore sand transport. Terms in the governing equations because of the nonlinear boundary layer process are included in this one-dimensional vertical (1DV) model by simplifying the two-dimensional vertical (2DV) ensemble-averaged two-phase equations with the assumption that waves propagate without changing their form. The model is first driven by measured time series of near-bed flow velocity because of a wave group during the SISTEX99 large wave flume experiment and validated with the measured sand concentration in the sheet flow layer. Additional studies are then carried out by including and excluding the nonlinear boundary layer terms. It is found that for the grain diameter (0.24 mm) and high-velocity skewness wave condition considered here, nonlinear waveshape (e.g., skewness) is the dominant mechanism causing net onshore transport and nonlinear boundary layer streaming effect only causes an additional 36% onshore transport. However, for conditions of relatively low-wave skewness and a stronger offshore directed current, nonlinear boundary layer streaming plays a more critical role in determining the net transport. Numerical experiments further suggest that the nonlinear boundary layer streaming effect becomes increasingly important for finer grain. When the numerical model is driven by measured near-bed flow velocity in a more realistic surf zone setting, model results suggest nonlinear boundary layer processes may nearly double the onshore transport purely because of nonlinear waveshape.

show abstract

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Sediment transport under wave groups: Relative importance between nonlinear waveshape and nonlinear boundary layer streaming

Hsu

Hanes

2010

J. Geophys. Res.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Also, data analyses examining the measure of chaotic behavior in observed near-shore response (12) have not been conclusive (13). Because all these approaches predict morphodynamic responses that have frequently been observed in the field, we conclude that the three response mechanisms probably all occur and might even coexist.…”

mentioning

confidence: 89%

Sandbars in Motion

Stive

Reniers

2003

Science

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

“…Some mention patterns in sandbar behavior that cannot be directly related to forcings (e.g. Southgate and Möller, 2000;Plant et al, 2006), but identifying such behavior from observations remains difficult (Elgar, 2001). It is therefore unclear if the evolution of a multiple-barred sandbar system can best be described in terms of trajectories of sandbar positions in state space, or as primarily forced by external factors.…”

Section: Modelsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Multivariate analysis of nonlinearity in sandbar behavior

Pape

Ruessink

2008

Nonlin. Processes Geophys.

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Abstract. Alongshore sandbars are often present in the nearshore zones of storm-dominated micro-to mesotidal coasts. Sandbar migration is the result of a large number of small-scale physical processes that are generated by the incoming waves and the interaction between the wavegenerated processes and the morphology. The presence of nonlinearity in a sandbar system is an important factor determining its predictability. However, not all nonlinearities in the underlying system are equally expressed in the time-series of sandbar observations. Detecting the presence of nonlinearity in sandbar data is complicated by the dependence of sandbar migration on the external wave forcings. Here, a method for detecting nonlinearity in multivariate time-series data is introduced that can reveal the nonlinear nature of the dependencies between system state and forcing variables. First, this method is applied to four synthetic datasets to demonstrate its ability to qualify nonlinearity for all possible combinations of linear and nonlinear relations between two variables. Next, the method is applied to three sandbar datasets consisting of daily-observed crossshore sandbar positions and hydrodynamic forcings, spanning between 5 and 9 years. Our analysis reveals the presence of nonlinearity in the time-series of sandbar and wave data, and the relative importance of nonlinearity for each variable. The relation between the results of each sandbar case and patterns in bar behavior are discussed, together with the effects of noise. The small effect of nonlinearity implies that longterm prediction of sandbar positions based on wave forcings might not require sophisticated nonlinear models.

show abstract

Coastal profile evolution at Duck, North Carolina: A cautionary note

Cited by 9 publications

References 12 publications

Sediment transport under wave groups: Relative importance between nonlinear waveshape and nonlinear boundary layer streaming

Sediment transport under wave groups: Relative importance between nonlinear waveshape and nonlinear boundary layer streaming

Sandbars in Motion

Multivariate analysis of nonlinearity in sandbar behavior

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About