Sandbars in Motion

Dynamics of a nearshore bar system in the northern Adriatic: A video-based morphological classification

“…Coco et al, 2004;Ranasinghe et al, 2004). However, as remarked by Stive and Reniers (2003), the non-linearity of surf zone processes is testified by the complexity associated with bar morphodynamics and with beachcusps, which at present cannot be fully explained without citing the debate between self-organization and forced response.…”

“…Alexander and Holman (2004) confirmed the same tendency using Argus at four different sites with variable wave exposure (Noordwijk, The Netherlands; Agate Beach, Oregon, USA; Duck, North Carolina, USA; and Palm Beach, Australia). It is important to note that this is a typical forced response case, implying a sufficient time duration of the forcing factor (Stive and Reniers, 2003). For a site like Lido di Dante, where the typical duration of the observed storms was 22 h, the process may not be long enough to trigger the offshore migration of the form.…”

On the diffusivity in coastline dynamics

“…The dynamics of the coastline is certainly linked to the complex morphodynamics of the sea bed in the nearshore. Thus, the dynamics of the beach profiles with the formation, migration and decay of sand bars affects the coastline [ Short , 1999; Stive and Reniers , 2003; Caballeria et al , 2002]. In spite of this complexity in two dimensions, cross‐shore and alongshore, a 1D (alongshore) modelling of the large scale coastline dynamics has been very common in coastal engineering.…”

Role of Infragravity Energy in Bar Formation in a Strong‐Wind Bay: Observations from Seaford Beach, Port Phillip Bay, Australia

“…Unlike the standing wave model, which requires specific surf zone conditions, self-organisational models attribute bar formation to the ubiquitous non-linear interactions between shoaling incident waves or wave-driven longshore currents and the nearshore bed (Boczar-Karakiewicz and Davidson-Arnott, 1987;Falqués et al , 1996;Stive and Reniers, 2003;Castelle et al , 2006). The high potential for self-organisation from these non-linear interactions provides an appealing explanation for bar formation.…”