A spectroscopic study (UV–vis and adsorption) has been made of the interactions of select model azo dyes with a range of surfactant types or their mixtures both above and below their respective critical micelle concentrations. All surfactants inhibit adsorption of the dyes to cotton above their critical micelle concentrations due to incorporation in micelles. However, formation of 1;1 complexes between dyes and cationic or zwitterionic surfactants in sub‐micellar regions results in enhanced deposition on cotton. It is shown that attractive or repulsive electrostatic interactions play a key role in dye binding to micelles. Unusually, spectra of complexes formed between the dye and cationic surfactant are typical of those of the azo tautomeric form as opposed to the hydrazone form that is prevalent in aqueous media. Addition of anionic surfactant to micellar solutions of nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants results in successive displacement of dye from the respective micelles, i.e. binding is competitive.