Comparing Fit of Basic Bodices and Skirts Altered by Traditional and Experimental Techniques

Brackelsberg, Phyllis; Farrell-Beck, Jane; Winakor, Geitel

doi:10.1177/0887302x8600500105

Cited by 10 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 2 publications

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“…Ashdown and DeLong (1995) studied perception of apparel ease with a test set of computer-generated pants. Numerous studies have used computer-generated or custom-drafted patterns fit to individuals for fit evaluation by experts (Terry, 1968;Brackelsberg et al, 1986;Shen and Huck, 1993). Salusso-Deonier et al (1985/1986) identified the importance of using an index of body form to develop a sizing system.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Numerous studies have used computer-generated or custom-drafted patterns fit to individuals for fit evaluation by experts (Terry, 1968;Brackelsberg et al, 1986;Shen and Huck, 1993). Salusso-Deonier et al (1985/1986) identified the importance of using an index of body form to develop a sizing system. However, there is little work addressing issues which may impact fit as expressed by consumers of women's apparel.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Fit preferences of female consumers in the USA

Pisut

Connell

2007

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal

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Purpose -The paper seeks to investigate fit preferences of female consumers in the USA based on the relationship between their fit preferences, body cathexis, fit problems, and personal profiles. Design/methodology/approach -Female subjects (n ¼ 1,026) between the ages of 19 and 54 were asked to respond to a questionnaire that was mailed to subjects. The questionnaire was used to evaluate consumer fit preferences for individual garment categories (jackets, pants, skirts, blouses, and jeans) relative to respondents' personal profiles, body shape, and body cathexis. Terminology, fit issues, and elements of fit expressed as important to female consumers as identified in an initial focus group which was part of a larger study associated with this research were considered in development of the questionnaire. Findings -Eighty percent of the sample reported two or more areas of the body where fit problems occurred. One-third of the respondents altered up to 25 percent of RTW. Semi-fitted preferences for clothing were reported most often. A significant relationship was found between women who scored high on the body cathexis scale and those who desired more fitted clothing. Body shapes were fairly evenly distributed among all age categories, except for the 19-35 year old respondents who were more likely to have an hourglass silhouette. Research limitations/implications -This methodology involved a self-report of several variables. Items such as body measurements and body shape were subjective. Answers could be inaccurate because of respondents' lack of knowledge of their measurements or their desire to represent a more ideal figure for themselves. Using 3D body scanning to verify body measurements and body shape could provide more accurate results. Practical implications -The issue of the fit in apparel is critical for both industry and academia. Academia has traditionally examined fit based on expert analysis and is just beginning to investigate the importance of fit from the consumer's viewpoint. In the product development area, industry needs to be able to go beyond just body measurements to incorporate fit preferences based on categorical profiles of consumer groups. Originality/value -As a construct, fit is difficult to study. This paper identifies variables, constructs a stimulus and investigates women's preferences for fit in various garment categories.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Fit preferences of female consumers in the USA

Pisut

Connell

2007

Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal

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“…Researchers also have investigated the characteristics of various basic patterns. Brackelsberg et al (1986) investigated the effects of basic bodice and skirt pattern altering methods using angles of the body characteristics from body contour on those fitting. Gill and Chadwick (2009) investigated methods of determining ease allowance in pattern construction.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Developing a basic pattern for a design based on the comparison of four basic pattern approaches

Isaji

Kim

Takatera

2022

IJCST

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PurposeThe authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.Design/methodology/approachTargeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.FindingsThe appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.Originality/valueIt was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.

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“…Many researchers have investigated method to create a basic pattern according to the classification of body types (Chen, 2007;Okabe et al, 1995;Nakano, 1986). Body types also have been investigated to make comfortable and well-fitting clothing (Makabe and Beppu, 1997;Kato, 1994;Brackelsberg et al, 1986). Lim and Cassidy (2017) compared four pattern making methods for trousers according to different body shapes.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Adaptivity of pattern making methods to garments for varying body dimensions

Kim

Fujii

Takatera

2019

IJCST

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Purpose To suggest a garment for a wider market, the purpose of this paper is to assess the appearance of garments manufactured by a combination of four methods of flat pattern making and four dress forms from different countries. The paper also compares Japanese and British women’s evaluations of these garments’ appearances. Design/methodology/approach The authors made 16 garments by combining 4 pattern making methods with measurements from 4 dress forms and evaluated their appearance. The four dress forms were from Japan (Kiiya, called “Kii”), France (Siegel & Stockman, called “St”), the UK (Kennett & Lindsell, called “KL”) and the USA (Wolf Form, called “Wo”), and the four pattern making methods were from Japan (Bunka), Italy (Secoli), France (ESMOD) and the USA (Fashion Institute of Technology, called “FIT”). The authors captured 64 sets of pictures of the 16 garments with the 4 dress forms from the front and the side. The authors then showed images of the four garments made using the same pattern making method with measurements from the four dress forms to subjects for assessment. The subjects – 15 Japanese and 11 British women in their 20s – ranked the pictures in descending order of appearance. Findings Subjects from both countries rated garments manufactured using the Bunka and Secoli pattern making methods with the Kii and KL dress forms, and those made using ESMOD and FIT with St and Wo as the highest, even though the dress forms used for pattern making and those for wearing were not coincident. On the contrary, many garments made using Bunka and Secoli with St and Wo, and those made using ESMOD and FIT with Kii and KL were rated lowest in terms of appearance, even though the target dress form and wearing dress form were coincident. Therefore, there are appropriate body measurements for each pattern making method that can render the relevant garment more attractive, likely because these measurements are derived from assumed body proportions in the pattern making method of each country. Originality/value Although the evaluation of the appearance of garments is an important factor in garment manufacture, scant research has addressed this issue. Moreover, the comparison between Japanese and British women provided here will help manufacturers make garments that are more attractive to people in both countries.

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Comparing Fit of Basic Bodices and Skirts Altered by Traditional and Experimental Techniques

Cited by 10 publications

References 2 publications

Fit preferences of female consumers in the USA

Fit preferences of female consumers in the USA

Developing a basic pattern for a design based on the comparison of four basic pattern approaches

Adaptivity of pattern making methods to garments for varying body dimensions

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