The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of pressing on bending rigidities of the face fabric, adhesive interlining and bonded composite fabric and verify the prediction method for bending rigidity of those. Predicting methods of bending rigidity for composite with face fabric and adhesive interlining based on laminated theory were verified with measured bending rigidities and thickness of samples. Bending rigidities and thicknesses of woven fabrics, adhesive interlinings and composites with those were measured by KES-FB system. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film was used for measuring mechanical properties of pressed adhesive interlining. Bending rigidities of adhesive interlinings became larger and thicknesses of those became thinner than those of before pressing. Bending rigidities of face fabrics didn't change though the thicknesses became thinner than before pressing. It was found that the case of considering mechanical properties of pressed face fabric and pressed interlining was more efficient to predict bending rigidity of composite with laminated model.

The consumer is demanding more variety and personalization in apparel products. Personalization includes creating clothing that not only takes into account of variations in size, but also variations of the body shape itself. The traditional grading method is the current standard sizing system in the apparel industry. It starts with a base size which is then proportionally graded to create a multiple set of sizes. Although it caters for a limited number of sizes, this method does not include variations in body shape. In our research, we have developed a method of individual pattern making by modifying a traditional draping system so that it can be used in conjunction with modern three-dimensional modeling techniques. Individualized pattern making means customized pattern making for individuals. This method uses a five-step draping process. The steps are: (1) defining the surface shape; (2) setting grainlines; (3) fitting the fabric to the surface shape; (4) cutting of the three-dimensional surfaces; and (5) developing the three-dimensionally fitted fabric into a two-dimensional pattern. Our fitting process prevents or controls buckling when the limit angle of a fabric’s ability to conform to a surface is exceeded. We do this entire process using computed geometrical models, rather than physically. Therefore we believe it has the potential to be more efficient and simple than other techniques. When we used this method to make a pattern for a tight skirt, we easily created complex curved lines automatically using this development method. When test subjects compared our skirt with a traditionally designed skirt, approximately 80% of the subjects indicated a preference for our skirt. Although this paper focuses on patterns made for dummies, our future research will focus on fitting to real human body shapes.

Abstract:In order to measure the apparent Poisson's ratio of textile fabrics by uniaxial tensile testing, error mechanism was studied and new evaluation method was proposed. Using Lloyd-Hearle method, experimental mechanism and resulting error were investigated by comparison with theoretical FEM calculation with experimental data. In Lloyd-Heare method, theoretical error of apparent Poisson's ratio can be reduced by uniaxial tension testing at two extreme conditions, i.e. either at large (gauge length) / (sample width) ratio or at small ratio. When the gauge length is short, the experimental results were markedly affected by the slip between the chucks and sample. In order to correct the experimental error caused by the above reason, samples having various dimensions were utilized for the experiment. Some concrete examples to get apparent Poisson's ratios of fabrics by uniaxial tension test were also shown. This method is applicable for simulations of cloth draping and deformation which need apparent Poisson's ratios.

PurposeIn order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape control lines were compared, which resulted in an agreement ratio of over 93 percent. This fact supports the adaptability and potential usefulness of the body model.Originality/value – This research makes it possible for customers to modify the body model to match their own body shape during internet or catalogue shopping; it can also enable apparel manufacturers to communicate with their customers by describing the body model to fit on the screen while in the ordering process.