Individual Pattern Making Using Computerized Draping Method for Clothing

Abstract

The consumer is demanding more variety and personalization in apparel products. Personalization includes creating clothing that not only takes into account of variations in size, but also variations of the body shape itself. The traditional grading method is the current standard sizing system in the apparel industry. It starts with a base size which is then proportionally graded to create a multiple set of sizes. Although it caters for a limited number of sizes, this method does not include variations in body shape. In our research, we have developed a method of individual pattern making by modifying a traditional draping system so that it can be used in conjunction with modern three-dimensional modeling techniques. Individualized pattern making means customized pattern making for individuals. This method uses a five-step draping process. The steps are: (1) defining the surface shape; (2) setting grainlines; (3) fitting the fabric to the surface shape; (4) cutting of the three-dimensional surfaces; and (5) developing the three-dimensionally fitted fabric into a two-dimensional pattern. Our fitting process prevents or controls buckling when the limit angle of a fabric’s ability to conform to a surface is exceeded. We do this entire process using computed geometrical models, rather than physically. Therefore we believe it has the potential to be more efficient and simple than other techniques. When we used this method to make a pattern for a tight skirt, we easily created complex curved lines automatically using this development method. When test subjects compared our skirt with a traditionally designed skirt, approximately 80% of the subjects indicated a preference for our skirt. Although this paper focuses on patterns made for dummies, our future research will focus on fitting to real human body shapes.

Computerized pattern making focus on fitting to 3D human body shapes

“…Take in Table 1 Individual Pattern development process Our development method is presented simply here (Cho et al, 2006).…”

An Improved Texture Mapping Model Based on Mesh Parameterization in 3D Garments

“…In 3D garment CAD, many segmentation methods are proposed to apply in the different situation. Sul [4] presented a NURBS curve cutting approach to select interpolations on garment model and fitting the curve to obtain the route. Considering the complex shapes of garment model, it is a useful way to apply the seed-based segmentation method in the extraction of garment feature line.…”

Automatic 3D Pattern Making of Fitted Upper Garments Considering Individuals' Figures and Shear Limit of Fabrics

“…The skirt and trousers were successfully made with the system [8][9][10][11][12]. A method of individual pattern making for the upper garment pattern was also proposed in our previous study [13].…”

“…The fabric model is expressed with the lattice of regular intervals. The fabric model covers the surface from the grainlines while making shear [9]. The covering stops at the edge of fabric model or the shear limit.…”

“…In this process, 3D cutting line is flattened on the 2D pattern. Finally we can archive the pattern [9].…”