The consumer is demanding more variety and personalization in apparel products. Personalization includes creating clothing that not only takes into account of variations in size, but also variations of the body shape itself. The traditional grading method is the current standard sizing system in the apparel industry. It starts with a base size which is then proportionally graded to create a multiple set of sizes. Although it caters for a limited number of sizes, this method does not include variations in body shape. In our research, we have developed a method of individual pattern making by modifying a traditional draping system so that it can be used in conjunction with modern three-dimensional modeling techniques. Individualized pattern making means customized pattern making for individuals. This method uses a five-step draping process. The steps are: (1) defining the surface shape; (2) setting grainlines; (3) fitting the fabric to the surface shape; (4) cutting of the three-dimensional surfaces; and (5) developing the three-dimensionally fitted fabric into a two-dimensional pattern. Our fitting process prevents or controls buckling when the limit angle of a fabric’s ability to conform to a surface is exceeded. We do this entire process using computed geometrical models, rather than physically. Therefore we believe it has the potential to be more efficient and simple than other techniques. When we used this method to make a pattern for a tight skirt, we easily created complex curved lines automatically using this development method. When test subjects compared our skirt with a traditionally designed skirt, approximately 80% of the subjects indicated a preference for our skirt. Although this paper focuses on patterns made for dummies, our future research will focus on fitting to real human body shapes.

PurposeIn order to mass‐customize clothes, it is essential to consider individual body shape using computerized 3D body models. This paper describes the development of an interactive body model that can be altered with individual body shape for the purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach – For altering perimeter and length for contouring individual body shapes, a cross‐sectional line model is proposed arranged at regular intervals. This model is easy for controlling body shape and also for calculating length and perimeters. Shape control lines (SCL) are used to modify the shape of the model in order to adjust the model to represent different body shapes. SCL are used to modify the perimeter of the cross‐sectional line by scaling method with different center position and scaling ratio in a horizontal direction.Findings – In order to investigate whether virtual body models can be adequately substituted for real physical models, the perimeter and cross‐section areas of shape control lines were compared, which resulted in an agreement ratio of over 93 percent. This fact supports the adaptability and potential usefulness of the body model.Originality/value – This research makes it possible for customers to modify the body model to match their own body shape during internet or catalogue shopping; it can also enable apparel manufacturers to communicate with their customers by describing the body model to fit on the screen while in the ordering process.

Computerized pattern making focus on fitting to 3D human body shapes Abstract Purpose-This paper aims to describe the development a method of constructing 3D human body shapes that include a degree of ease for purpose of computerized pattern making.Design/methodology/approach-We could make the body shape with ease allowance to an individual's unique body shape using sweep method and a convex method. And then generates tight skirt patterns for the reconstructed virtual body shape using a computerized pattern making system. Findings-We obtained individual patterns using individually reconstructed 3D body shapes by computerized pattern development. In our patterns, complex curved lines such as waist lines and dart lines are created automatically using the developed method. We successfully used our method to make variations of a tight skirt to fit different size women. We also used our method to make other skirts of various designs.Originality/value-Our method is useful for making patterns and then garments, without the need for the garments to be later adjusted for the subject.

An iodine-promoted one-pot synthesis of functionally diverse and highly substituted 4-aminopyrroles directly from aryl methyl ketones, arylamines, and enamines was developed. The reaction involves in-situ oxidation of aryl methyl ketone to glyoxal, subsequent imine formation by aniline, followed by nucleophilic addition of enamine, and cyclization to afford highly substituted 4-aminopyrroles. This reaction involved the formation of two CÀN bonds and one CÀC bond by a formal [1 + 1 + 3] annulation approach. The present method provides an interesting framework of two 4aminopyrrole units directly attached to a biphenyl core by the reaction of 4,4'-diacyl biphenyl, amine, and enamine groups. This Hantzsch-type one-pot reaction provides diverse 4-aminopyrroles, which could be useful in medicinal/material chemistry.

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