Comparison between a wax/volatile oil mixture and vegetable butters in a long-lasting make-up formula: A rheological and structural study compared to product performance

Abstract

The long-lasting make-up was created to avoid migration of the product on the skin throughout the day. Currently, the formulation technology most commonly used to obtain it is based on the use of film-forming agents with volatile oils. However, with the growing trend in natural cosmetics, petroleum-based volatile compounds are increasingly being abandoned. The objective of this study is to determine whether a mixture of plant-based butters can be chosen to replace a mixture of volatile oil and synthetic wax in a long-lasting eyeshadow. Initial comparisons were made between two jojoba butters and a wax/volatile oil mixture in order to identify the best candidate to replace the latter. Then, the best candidate was incorporated into formula and finished formulas were compared using sensory evaluation, rheology and X-ray scattering. The results show that it is possible to preserve texture, rheological properties and structural organization of a formula by replacing a wax/oil mixture with vegetable butters. However, this does not mean that the formulas will behave the same on the eyelids over time. This work illustrates the real complexity faced by formulators when they must replace one raw material with another while guaranteeing the durability of all the product’s properties. This challenge is more relevant today as consumer demand for products based on natural ingredients is growing.

Grasas Vegetales en Cosmetología

“…The triglycerides of myristic and lauric acids from the wild mango tree make it a natural lipid-replenishing, softening butter that can be used in make-up, skincare and hair preparations. Jojoba esters have an intermediate butter like texture, low greasy emollient properties, a good temperature /oxidative stability index and some similar rheological properties of less natural wax /volatile oil mixture used in eyeshadows formulas [23]. Waxes are complex mixtures formed predominantly of esters, which are mostly solid at room temperature, with a high melting point and found on the leaf surface of certain plants and whose role it is to protect them.…”

Preliminary Approaches to Cosmeceuticals Emulsions Based on N-ProlylPalmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetat-Bakuchiol Complex Intended to Combat Skin Oxidative Stress

“…Vegetable oils rich in vitamins are also beneficial for skin regeneration due to their active fatty acids. The second key area of research is identifying substances that can increase cell production [ 28 , 29 , 30 , 31 , 32 ].…”