The aim of this study was to use plant extracts from spontaneous flora of Moldova (Rediu-Iasi area, Romania) as polyphenols and flavonoids source in order to obtain new dermato-cosmetic formulas to prevent the actions of oxidative stress on skin. Plant extracts (from raw and dried Galium verum sp.) were obtained by: cold classical maceration (M), heat reflux extraction (HTE) and ultrasound assisted extraction (UAE). The extracts were characterized by spectrophotometric method (for polyphenols and flavonoids content and for DPPH antioxidant activity evaluation). In order to evaluate the combating and/or attenuating effects of oxidative stress on skin, the study was continued with the elaboration of emulsions that incorporate one of these extracts. The emulsions were preliminarily characterized by determining the stability over time. The obtained results encourage research in the direction of deeper characterization of these emulsions to determine the microbiological stability and dermatological tests performed on the skin treated with these new products.

The valorization of indigenous flora waste by extraction of biologically active compounds has potential applications in the medical and cosmetic fields. The polyphenols and flavonoids extracted from this waste are valuable compounds for the manufacture of new cosmetic and/or dermato-cosmetic formulas to protect the skin from oxidative stress. This study obtained plant extracts from saffron waste—petals, tepals, and superior portions of stem—using different solid-liquid extraction techniques. The influence of some physical operating parameters was studied (extraction time, solid/liquid ratio, solvent extraction composition). The extraction method performance was assessed by the value of the extraction yields. The obtained extracts were characterized by the content of polyphenols and flavonoids, and the antioxidant activity determined with the DPPH and ABTS methods and the UV-VIS spectrometry. Some emulsions O/W were prepared and preliminarily characterized (pH, sensory analysis, stability after centrifugation and storage). The obtained results showed that the incorporation of this natural extract did not negatively affect the stability of the studied cosmetic formulations and advanced characterization (microbiological control of contamination, rheology studies and in vitro and in vivo studies) can be continued in order to implement a new product.

The increasing incidence of skin diseases, against the background of increased pollution, urbanism, poor habits in lifestyle, work, rest, diet and general medication, led to the development of products with a protective effect. These new types of dermatocosmetic preparations ensure maximum benefits with minimal formulation. Antioxidants are, nowadays, ingredients that stand out with a proven role in skin protection from oxidative stress and its effects. Thus, research has shown that light-textured formulas, quickly absorbed into the skin, with optimum hydration and protection against excessive free radicals, uphold the skin integrity and appearance. This article aims to evaluate essential criteria for a newly marketed product: stability, rheological properties and microbiological characteristics of oil-in-water emulsions based on a mixture of 3% resveratrol 0.5% ferulic acid and 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron. The tests led to the conclusion that O / W dermatocosmetic emulsions, based on 3% resveratrol and 0.5% ferulic acid, or also 1mL alcoholic extract of Saffron, show resistance to microbiological contamination, good rheological properties (viscoelastic behavior, structural stability, acceptable shearing behavior) that reveal satisfactory texture and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to dermatological testing as the final stage in considering a new commercial product.

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