Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers

López-Rivera, Eva; González-Badillo, Juan José

doi:10.2478/hukin-2018-0057

Cited by 34 publications

(54 citation statements)

References 42 publications

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“…The effect size (ES) was calculated according to López-Rivera and González-Badillo, Hedges and Olkin and Rhea [ 27 , 28 , 29 ] with g = (mean pretest)-(mean posttest)/pooled standard deviation of corresponding standard deviations. The pooled standard deviation (SDpool) was calculated with the formula

[ 30 ].…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

Assmann

Steinmetz

Schilling

et al. 2020

IJERPH

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In recent years, climbing sports is on the rise making its Olympic debut in 2021. Physiological traits of professional rock climbers have been intensively studied, while recreational indoor climbers are less investigated, especially regarding grip strength and upper extremity proportions. In this cross-sectional study, we aimed to understand what discerns the recreational climber from disparate recreational athletes. Therefore, we analyzed 50 recreational climbing (30.3 ± 12.7 years, 1.76 ± 0.09 m and 67.0 ± 14.0 kg) and 50 non-climbing athletes (26.4 ± 9.1 years, 1.78 ± 0.09 m and 73.2 ± 12.6 kg) to detect differences in their finger grip strength of seven different pinches. In addition, the upper extremity proportions were measured. Even in recreational climbers, almost all analyzed grips were stronger compared to other athletes (p < 0.05 in all but non-dominant fist, small to moderate effect sizes). Only the grip strength of the whole non-dominant hand was not significantly different (p = 0.17). Interestingly, differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand appeared to be larger in the non-climbing (all p < 0.05, all but one with small effect size) compared to the climbing cohort (pinch I/IV and pinch I/II+III+IV not different and mostly trivial). Circumference measurements showed that 10 cm below the lateral epicondyle, climbers exhibited significantly greater perimeter compared to non-climbing athletes (p < 0.05, small effect size). Our results show that recreational climbers have higher measured grip strength, but less profound differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand.

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[ 30 ].…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

Assmann

Steinmetz

Schilling

et al. 2020

IJERPH

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Physical and physiological factors, such as endurance and strength, determine optimal climbing performance, starting from the base level to the elite. However, optimum performance is achieved only in case one train continuously and with a lot of focus [7], [13], [14]. Besides, other factors such as psychological and mental strategy also affect the performance of rock climbing [15], [16].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Ilham¹,

Tomoliyus²

2021

saj

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Background: The speed world record (WR) performance is an achievement achieved by athletes in the competitive rock-climbing category, where the athlete must complete the climbing route on a standard artificial climbing wall with a height of 15m in the shortest possible time. Purpose: This study aimed to construct and validate an observational instrument to assess technical execution in lead climbing. The instrument developed can be used to assess progress to achieve the important aspects of climbing movement methods. Design / methodology / approach: Importantly, the construction of its validity and reliability was conducted in four stages. The first stage was a literature review on the construction of the observational instrument. In the second stage, the instrument's construction was established. The content validity coefficient was determined in the third stage using Aiken's V and 7 experts with various qualifications, including the level of understanding, appropriateness of the words, and the relevance of the statement with a grading scale of 0-10. The instrument's internal validity was calculated using 20 climbers and was quantitatively tested using the product-moment correlation. In the fourth stage, instrument reliability was determined using Cronbach's Alpha reliability test. Results showed that the observational instrument has content validity with optimal internal value as well as satisfactory reliability. Conclusion: Observational instruments were valid and reliable; therefore, they can be used to assess technical execution for novice climbers in lead climbing. It allows instructors, coaches, and teachers to assess the technical execution of novice climbers specifically in lead climbing.

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“…Although the number of scientific studies focusing on the most suitable teaching methods to improve sportive performance has increased in recent years, it is still not sufficient (Rivera & Badillo, 2019). Especially in sports where balls, rackets and similar tools are used, it is more difficult to repeat the techniques in the desired quality because many different situations are encountered during the application of techniques in these sports branches.…”

Section: Introductıonmentioning

confidence: 99%

The Effects of Differential Learning Method on the Tennis Ground Stroke Accuracy and Mobility

Yildirim¹,

Kizilet²

2020

JEL

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The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of different learning methods on learning tennis stroke skills, retention of learned skills and mobility time compared to traditional learning methods. Twenty-four (12 boys, 12 girls) high school students who have just started tennis education in a high school in Istanbul participated in this study voluntarily (Age: 15.00 ± 0.00 years, weight: 63.46 ± 10.64 kg, height: 1.65 ± 0.06 m, and body mass index 23.26 ± 2.91 kg/m2). Subjects were divided into two homogeneous groups of 12, each with equal numbers of boys (6 girls, 6 boys) according to the pre-test results. One of the groups was named control group, and the other group was named differential learning group. The training sessions were held 3 days a week for 10 weeks and each training lasted 90 minutes. The International Tennis Number (ITN) test was applied to determine the tennis ground stroke accuracy and mobility time. A modified version of the ITN mobility test was applied using the Fitlight TrainerTM device. Repeated Measures Anova test was used to examine the difference between pre-test, post-test and retention test of the same group. One Way Anova was used for the interaction between groups, measurement (pre-test, post-test, retention test) means. p < 0.05 was accepted for the significance level in the interpretation of statistical procedures. As a consequence; It can be said that the differential learning method is more effective than traditional training methods in the accuracy of tennis ground hits, but there is no significant difference between the two groups in retention of learning. Moreover, no significant difference was found in mean differences between groups and from pre-test to post-test and retention test within groups.

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Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers

Cited by 34 publications

References 42 publications

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

The Effects of Differential Learning Method on the Tennis Ground Stroke Accuracy and Mobility

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