Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation

Orth, Dominic; Davids, Keith; Seifert, Ludovic

doi:10.1007/s40279-015-0417-5

Cited by 54 publications

(44 citation statements)

References 96 publications

(245 reference statements)

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“…This verified the predictive value of balance, coordination and precision in acquisition of a specialized sport skill of slacklining, which is in agreement with the findings of Cagno et al (2014) who investigated coordination and motor learning in gymnasts. Orth, Davids and Seifert (2016) aimed at climbing, which is similar to slacklining in postural stability demands. They verified that perceptual and motor adaptations that improve skilled coordination are highly significant for improving climbing ability level.…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effect Of Level Of Coordination Abilities On Motor Learning Progress In Slacklining

Chaloupská¹

2017

European Proceedings of Social and Behavioural Sciences

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Slacklining (walking on slackline) as a sport activity is a specialized motor skill with great demands on variability, anticipation and responding to external conditions. The research study works on an assumption that motor learning progress in slacklining is influenced by the level of coordination skills.The purpose of the study was to investigate how the level of coordination abilities affects progress in slacklining. The research question relates to coordination abilities being a performance precondition for motor tasks with similar coordination demands. 40 university students (19-24) participated in the study.Indicators of the level of coordination abilities were standardised 1-leg standing balance test and IowaBrace battery. The participants trained slacklining within 8 sessions (10 attempts once a week). Motor learning progress was recorded. Statistical significance of difference across the sample was evaluated by Mann-Whitney test (p < 0.05). The progress in acquiring slacklining was recorded in terms of the best performance and the total number of attempts on slackline. A significant difference (p < 0.05) was found out across the sample in both selected indicators of coordination abilities, which suggests that the progress in slacklining of the participants with higher level of coordination abilities was faster. In conclusion, the level of coordination abilities, especially balance, can help the progress of motor learning in slacklining. However, slacklining is a complex and concentration-demanding skill and the progress can also be influenced by other factors, such as external conditions, personality and motivation.

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Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Effect Of Level Of Coordination Abilities On Motor Learning Progress In Slacklining

Chaloupská¹

2017

European Proceedings of Social and Behavioural Sciences

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“…It is generally assumed that the task goal corresponds to the intentions of the individual where in climbing, the goals of the task are to: (a) not fall; (b) get to the end of a route, and (c), use an efficient pathway and movement patterning that reduces prolonged pauses (Orth et al, 2016 ). However, importantly, intentions can be influenced by skill (Rietveld and Kiverstein, 2014 ), which are reflected in adaptations that emerge with respect to dynamic constraints (Balagué et al, 2012 ; Davids et al, 2015 ).…”

Section: The Role Of Activity States In Climbing For Understanding Pementioning

confidence: 99%

“…A limitation in the extant literature is poor understanding of how an individual's specific activity state can influence climbing efficiency and being able to combine these measures can be highly informative (Orth et al, 2016 ). Indeed, approaches that have considered these variables in combination have uncovered important insights into the functional or goal-supportive characteristics of movement variability (Fryer et al, 2012 ; Seifert et al, 2015 ).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

et al. 2017

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In this review of research on climbing expertise, we focus on different measures of climbing performance, including spatiotemporal measures related to fluency and activity states (i.e., discrete actions), adopted by climbers for achieving overall performance goals of getting to the end of a route efficiently and safely. Currently, a broad range of variables have been reported, however, many of these fail to capture how climbers adapt to a route whilst climbing. We argue that spatiotemporal measures should be considered concurrently with evaluation of activity states (such as reaching or exploring) in order gain a more comprehensive picture of how climbers successfully adapt to a route. Spatial and temporal movement measures taken at the hip are a traditional means of assessing efficiency of climbing behaviors. More recently, performatory and exploratory actions of the limbs have been used in combination with spatiotemporal indicators, highlighting the influence of limb states on climbing efficiency and skill transfer. However, only a few studies have attempted to combine spatiotemporal and activity state measures taken during route climbing. This review brings together existing approaches for observing climbing skill at performance outcome (i.e., spatiotemporal assessments) and process (i.e., limb activity states) levels of analysis. Skill level is associated with a spatially efficient route progression and lower levels of immobility. However, more difficult hold architecture designs require significantly greater mobility and more complex movement patterning to maintain performance. Different forms of functional, or goal-supportive, movement variability, including active recovery and hold exploration, have been implicated as important adaptations to physiological and environmental dynamics that emerge during the act of climbing. Indeed, recently it has also been shown that, when climbing on new routes, efficient exploration can improve the transfer of skill. This review provides new insights into how climbing performance and related actions can be quantified to better capture the functional role of movement variability.

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“…According to our scoring system, a response value of 1 would represent an easy route, a response score of 0 represents routes that exceed the capacity, and values ranging between 0 and 1 represent challenging routes: lower values indicate greater challenges. Challenging routes force the athlete to actively explore new motor solutions to adapt to his or her environment (Latash, 2012), which improves overall performance on routes of various difficulty levels (Seifert et al, 2014;Orth et al, 2016). The size of each group is given by n.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…However, during the break, the participants did not talk to other athletes in the facility and could only ask the experimenter questions related to the study. Furthermore, the participants were prohibited from seeing the routes and other athletes climbing these routes in order to avoid visualization effects (e.g., Sanchez et al, 2012;Orth et al, 2016). Following the break, the athletes conducted the second trial with the exact same routes in the same order.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training

et al. 2020

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In the past decades, much research has examined the negative effects of stressors on the performance of athletes. However, according to evolutionary biology, organisms may exhibit growth under stress, a phenomenon called antifragility. For both coaches and their athletes, a key question is how to design training conditions to help athletes develop the kinds of physical, physiological, and behavioral adaptations underlying antifragility. An answer to this important question requires a better understanding of how individual athletes respond to stress or loads in the context of relevant sports tasks. In order to contribute to such understanding, the present study leverages a theoretical and methodological approach to generate individualized load-response profiles in the context of a climbing task. Climbers (n = 37) were asked to complete different bouldering (climbing) routes with increasing loading (i.e. difficulty). We quantified the behavioral responses of each individual athlete by mathematically combining two measures obtained for each route: (a) maximal performance (i.e. the percentage of the route that was completed) and (b) number of attempts required to achieve maximal performance. We mapped this composite response variable as a function of route difficulty. This procedure resulted in load-response curves that captured each athlete's adaptability to stress, termed phenotypic plasticity (PP), specifically operationalized as the area under the generated curves. The results indicate individual load-response profiles (and by extension PP) for athletes who perform at similar maximum levels. We discuss how these profiles might be used by coaches to systematically select stress loads that may be ideally featured in performance training.

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Coordination in Climbing: Effect of Skill, Practice and Constraints Manipulation

Abstract: A stra tBackground: Climbing is a physical activity and sport involving many sub-disciplines. The

Cited by 54 publications

References 96 publications

Effect Of Level Of Coordination Abilities On Motor Learning Progress In Slacklining

Effect Of Level Of Coordination Abilities On Motor Learning Progress In Slacklining

Analysis of Relations between Spatiotemporal Movement Regulation and Performance of Discrete Actions Reveals Functionality in Skilled Climbing

Antifragility in Climbing: Determining Optimal Stress Loads for Athletic Performance Training

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