Culinary Work at the Crossroads in Istanbul

Abstract

Alongside the emergence of a new breed of chefs from diverse social and culinary backgrounds in Istanbul during the last two decades, new culinary interpretations and appropriations are appearing with regard to what is signified by authenticity in culinary products and practices. Here localism unfolds as the main trend and theme. This tendency is further strengthened by the formation of a new political economy of taste in Istanbul, which is defined by a double movement. On the one hand, there is a nascent transition in culinary work from craftsmanship to a more specialized professionalism, a process that invokes significant economic and social tensions. On the other, a new eating public is emerging, a more cosmopolitan foodie group, with more ambition, desire, and motivation to try culinary products that are out of the ordinary.

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“…Culinary is a diverse and plural domain. Research on such pluralities and differing worldviews exist (e.g., Abidin et al, 2020;Farrer, 2021;Matta & García, 2019;Théry & Le Bail, 2017;Yenal & Kubiena, 2016), as such, the hospitality academy needs to evolve and recognize this plurality. There is no "one size fit all" solution or curriculum for the global hospitality/culinary domain.…”

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“…Turkish beer producer Efes has also tried to capitalize on this trend by producing beers called Gusta and Mariachi. Signs for these new drinks appeared prominently in the windows of bars and restaurants in Istanbul throughout the mid-2000s amidst a changing food culture and gentrification (Yenal and Kubiena 2016). 6 Here, such amenities create a built environment that invites elites with a taste for this global fusion.…”