Decadal shoreline erosion and recovery of beaches in modified and natural estuaries

Fellowes, Thomas; Vila‐Concejo, Ana; Gallop, Shari L.; Schosberg, Ryan; Staercke, Vincent De; Largier, John L.

doi:10.1016/j.geomorph.2021.107884

Cited by 15 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…(2020) and Fellowes et al. (2021) highlighted the role of these locally generated weak wind waves on the sandy beach morphodynamics in low energy estuaries and bays. A deeper analysis of the potential effect of the easterly wind sea generated inside the ria is outside the scope of the present work but opens up an opportunity for future studies.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Model results from these authors showed that the easterly ria wind sea is smaller and with shorter periods than the wind sea propagated from the shelf, which also agrees with our observations. Vila-Concejo et al ( 2020) and Fellowes et al (2021) highlighted the role of these locally generated weak wind waves on the sandy beach morphodynamics in low energy estuaries and bays. A deeper analysis of the potential effect of the easterly wind sea generated inside the ria is outside the scope of the present work but opens up an opportunity for future studies.…”

Section: Factors Controlling the Wave Regime Inside The Riamentioning

confidence: 99%

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Wave Regime and Wave‐Current Coupling in an Upwelling–Driven Bay: Seasonal and Inter‐Annual Variability

et al. 2021

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Data from an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP), a wave‐gauge, a met‐ocean buoy and model results provide new insights into the wave regime in a partially sheltered upwelling‐driven bay, the Ría de Vigo (NW Iberia), and the adjacent continental shelf from June 2013 to August 2014. Swell on the NW‐Iberian shelf comes mainly from NW directions, while wind sea comes from the NW under upwelling conditions, and from the SW under downwelling conditions. As the ria is protected from the NW and exposed to the SW, swell is almost always attenuated when entering the bay, and wave height inside the ria depends mostly on shelf wind sea variability. During the upwelling season, swell and wind sea barely enter the ria and wave heights inside the ria are small (0.21 m). During the downwelling season, shelf wind sea directly enters the ria, contributing more to the total wave height which achieves its maximum values (0.46 m). There is a cumulative action of wave and currents (wave current coupling, WCC) that is stronger during the downwelling season. The WCC entails an increase in the seabed energy which could reinforce bottom remineralization. The inter‐annual variability (2009–2016) of winter wave height and WCC in the ria is associated with the combined role played by the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) indices. The highest waves and strongest WCC occur during the coincidence of negative NAO and positive WEPA phases and can have potentially relevant repercussions on the ecosystem services of the ria.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Factors Controlling the Wave Regime Inside The Riamentioning

confidence: 99%

Wave Regime and Wave‐Current Coupling in an Upwelling–Driven Bay: Seasonal and Inter‐Annual Variability

et al. 2021

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“…Erosional patterns in BEBs systems (sandy beaches in estuaries and bays) along the Australian coast, is related with the frequency of coastal storms, the rates of recovery and the proximity to sediment sinks and sources (e.g. dredging sites, deltas and river outlets) and anthropic interventions (Fellowes et al, 2021).…”

Section: Current Gapsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Coastal erosion in sandy beaches along a tectonically active coast: The Chile study case

Martı́nez

Winckler

Martín

et al. 2021

Progress in Physical Geography: Earth and Environment

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Coastal erosion in 45 sandy beaches covering nearly 2000 km along the tectonically active Chilean coast is assessed during the last four decades. The historical analysis is based on the assessment of decadal changes of the shoreline position extracted from topographic surveys, aerial photographs, satellite images and survey maps using the DSAS software. Results show that 80% of the sites presented erosion rates (>−0.2 m/y), 7% beaches accreted (>0.2 m/y) while 13% remained stable. Eroded beaches include headland bay beaches, embayed and pocket beaches. A discussion on the possible causes explaining these results is conducted. While changes in offshore wave climate are spatially smooth within the region, relative mean sea level changes are highly variable and modulated by tectonic activity; the reduction of the sediment supply explains erosion rates in few cases.

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“…Composed of unconsolidated materials, beaches undergo recoverable changes in response to extreme weather conditions 2,3 . These recovery processes operate across storm-scale to decadal time scales, revealing a cyclic behavior in the profile changes of most beaches 4,5 . Longshore wind primarily influences longshore sediment transport, while cross-shore transport is governed by sediment sources from rivers, cliffs, and offshore.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Beach resilience to storm-induced erosion: a machine learning-driven approach to identify key morphometrics to recovery

Thilakarathne,

Suzuki,

Mäll

et al. 2024

Preprint

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In the context of ongoing discussions about climate change, the focus on beach resilience has gained significant attention in contemporary studies. However, a comprehensive understanding of beach resilience, particularly in the short term, remains limited. This study utilizes a dataset of 104 storm events in Hasaki beach, located on the East coast of Japan, to investigate the 10-day beach recovery. The study considers four types of distinct beach profile patterns based on sandbar formations. Employing XGBoost and the SHAP explanation method, the influence of morphometric indicators on beach resilience were explored. Resilient beach profiles are anticipated to exhibit rapid recovery following erosional storm events. The results reveal that morphometrics play a crucial role in determining the short-term, 10-day, recovery of beaches, with specific morphometric features demonstrating pronounced effects based on profile patterns. The study contributes to the current knowledge of post-storm beach recovery and provides insights that could inform discussions on beach resilience.

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Decadal shoreline erosion and recovery of beaches in modified and natural estuaries

Cited by 15 publications

References 20 publications

Wave Regime and Wave‐Current Coupling in an Upwelling–Driven Bay: Seasonal and Inter‐Annual Variability

Wave Regime and Wave‐Current Coupling in an Upwelling–Driven Bay: Seasonal and Inter‐Annual Variability

Coastal erosion in sandy beaches along a tectonically active coast: The Chile study case

Beach resilience to storm-induced erosion: a machine learning-driven approach to identify key morphometrics to recovery

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