Deconstructing Soup: Ferran Adriàà's Culinary Challenges

Parasecoli, Fabio

doi:10.1525/gfc.2001.1.1.60

Cited by 12 publications

(7 citation statements)

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“…And so are born the new ice creams, mousses, gelatins and foams, first cold and then hot (first use of synthetic emulsifiers such as lecithin in haute cuisine! ), which characterized the dishes of the early El Bulli era (52,56).…”

Section: Deconstruction In Cookingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Gastronomic Paradigms in Contemporary Western Cuisine: From French Haute Cuisine to Mass Media Gastronomy

Moral

2020

Front. Nutr.

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Thomas Kuhn brings the concept of "paradigm" as the fundamental engine in the progress of humanity. Kuhn defines paradigms as the set of formal theories, experiments and work methods that define a process (scientific, economic, social, and in this case, contemporary haute cuisine), in a given time. According to Kuhn, progress does not happen by gradual accumulation of knowledge, but rather by abrupt advances. In this review, the conceptual evolution experienced by contemporary gastronomy (from the French Revolution to today) is analyzed applying the paradigm structure in light of the scientific knowledge of each era. It is thus reviewed how the first and second gastronomic paradigms, proposed, respectively, by Carême and Escoffier and based on food smell and taste the first and the flavor of the sauces the second, have been replaced by the third and fourth paradigms, led, respectively, by the Nouvelle Cuisine in France and Ferrán Adriá in Spain, and in whose development touch, sight, and sound have become increasingly prominent in gastronomic pleasure. Finally, it is analyzed how new trends in gastronomy: (1) worldwide diffusion of the Spanish tapas; (2) globalization of ethnic and fusion cuisines; (3) the growing disappearance of the professional gastronomic critique and its replacement by mass media influencers; (4) the increase of sustainability in cooking with development of local-, vegan-, and paleo-cooking, comfort, and smart food and finally, (5) the growing role of social networks and the self-itis linked to photography or foodstagramming in the gastronomic experience are leading toward a new gastronomic paradigm based on the global socialization of classic gastronomy.

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Section: Deconstruction In Cookingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Gastronomic Paradigms in Contemporary Western Cuisine: From French Haute Cuisine to Mass Media Gastronomy

Moral

2020

Front. Nutr.

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“…According to Parasecoli, the concepts Adrià translates and materializes into food are, by his own admission, amazingly close to those developed within the literary and philosophical movement generally known as deconstruction: the same provocative use of estrangement, intended to make the most familiar structures, classifications, and conceptual systems totally unfamiliar; the same intense effort to subvert any absolute set of assumptions, to relentlessly fray the signifying differences in the canonized and mythicized culinary discourse. 42 …”

Section: Is Elbulli Postmodernist and Deconstructivist?mentioning

confidence: 99%

El Bulli: Intersecciones Contemporáneas Entre Comida, Ciencia, Arte y Capitalismo Tardío

Domene

2013

BRAC

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science and technology into cuisine in what is known as Adrià's 'techno-cuisine', and the crossing between contemporary art and food. To do so, I describe some of Adrià's dishes and examine the ways in which they relate to the artistic field. Rather than addressing the polemic question of whether a chef can ever be considered an artist or not, my essay reflects on the significance of Adrià's approximation to the contemporary art world in relation to the blurring of artistic frontiers and other cultural and social fields. I approach Adrià's case as an example of what Fredric Jameson calls the 'dedifferentiation' of spaces, disciplines, and social spheres that result from the economic forces of late capitalism. Ferran Adrià, chef principal del restaurante catalán y ahora fundación elBulli, participó en 2007 en la exposición de arte contemporáneo Documenta 12. Mi trabajo analiza este evento como la intersección de tres elementos: el trabajo y performance de Adrià como cocinero, la incorporación de la ciencia y la tecnología en la cocina en lo que se conoce como la "tecno-cocina" de Adrià, y el cruce entre arte contemporáneo y comida. En mi análisis, describo algunos de los platos de Adrià así como su relación con el campo artístico. En lugar de centrarme en la cuestión polémica sobre si un chef puede considerarse un artista o no, mi ensayo reflexiona sobre el significado de la aproximación de Adrià al mundo del arte contemporáneo en relación a la disolución de fronteras artísticas y de otros campos culturales y sociales. Me acerco al caso de Adrià como un ejemplo de lo que Fredric Jameson llama la "desdiferenciación" de espacios, disciplinas y esferas sociales producida por las fuerzas económicas del capitalismo tardío.Palabras claves: Ferran Adrià, Documenta, desdiferenciación, capitalismo tardío.

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“…Adrià is one such chef, and the science of molecular gastronomy plays a key role in his theory of culinary creativity. Whereas the scientists' project of culinary enlightenment was associated with modernism, Adrià's culinary theory is associated commonly with postmodernism (Matthews, 2004;Parasecoli, 2001;Wilson, 2006). However, I will suggest that this is too simple a categorization of the significations of Adrià and elBulli.…”

Section: The 'Restaurant': Elbulli Ferran Adrià and Culinary Creativitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Fabio Parasecoli argues that Adrià's mode of deconstruction is similar to Derrida's, as it shares 'the same provocative use of estrangement … [and] the same intense effort to subvert any absolute set of assumptions ' (2001: 63). He associates Adrià's cuisine with the postmodern practice of pastiche, through its harvesting of classical recipes from the past (Parasecoli, 2001). Yet the focus of pastiche on imitation of the past is antithetical to Adrià's modernist philosophy of culinary creativity as 'not copying'.…”

Section: The 'Restaurant': Elbulli Ferran Adrià and Culinary Creativitymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Considering this cultural significance, molecular gastronomy has been seriously under-examined in sociocultural research. To date, one article has been published on elBulli, which focuses on Adrià's philosophy of culinary 'deconstruction', but does not mention molecular gastronomy or science in general (Parasecoli, 2001). In contrast, this article examines elBulli in the context of the science of molecular gastronomy.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 1 more Smart Citation

Liquid nitrogen pistachios: Molecular gastronomy, elBulli and foodies

Solier

2010

European Journal of Cultural Studies

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‘Molecular gastronomy’ was invented by scientists to apply physics and chemistry to restaurant and home cooking, and is best known today through the world’s number one restaurant, elBulli, in Spain. This article examines molecular gastronomy as it is practised by three types of producers in different locations: by professional scientists in the laboratory, through a case study of its founders Nicholas Kurti and Hervé This; by professional chefs in the restaurant, through a case study of Ferran Adrià at elBulli; and by amateur ‘foodies’ in the home, through a case study of foodie called Rob. It argues that molecular gastronomy is particularized in each location, as it is tied to the scientist’s goal of ‘culinary enlightenment’, the chef ’s goal of ‘culinary creativity’, and the foodie’s goal of ‘gastronomic education’. In doing so, it contributes to debates about the shifting boundaries of science and expertise in late modernity.

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Deconstructing Soup: Ferran Adriàà's Culinary Challenges

Cited by 12 publications

References 0 publications

Gastronomic Paradigms in Contemporary Western Cuisine: From French Haute Cuisine to Mass Media Gastronomy

Gastronomic Paradigms in Contemporary Western Cuisine: From French Haute Cuisine to Mass Media Gastronomy

El Bulli: Intersecciones Contemporáneas Entre Comida, Ciencia, Arte y Capitalismo Tardío

Liquid nitrogen pistachios: Molecular gastronomy, elBulli and foodies

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