Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model

Smit, Pieter; Zijlema, Marcel; Stelling, Guus S.

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2013.01.008

Cited by 188 publications

(149 citation statements)

References 38 publications

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“…SWASH is employed with a time step of 0.001s t ∆ = and a grid size of 0.01m, x ∆ = for which a sensitivity analysis for experiment A1 showed sufficient convergence. We employed two vertical layers which is sufficient for the wave dispersion as the representative normalized water depths encountered in the experiments are , which is lower than the value of 0.6 found for random waves by Smit et al (2012).…”

Section: Bichromatic Waves Over a Plane Slopementioning

confidence: 99%

“…However, this requires a high resolution in both horizontal and vertical direction. To accurately capture wave breaking with a limited amount of vertical layers, we adopt the breaking formulation of Smit et al (2012). With this formulation the dispersive effects are suppressed in the vicinity of a breaking wave by neglecting the contribution of the nonhydrostatic pressure.…”

Section: Numerical Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Non-Hydrostatic Modelling of Infragravity Waves Using Swash

Rijnsdorp

Smit

Zijlema

2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a sloping bottom. Good agreement between model predictions and data is found throughout the domain for bound infragravity waves. Furthermore the model predicts greater outgoing free infragravity wave-heights for steeper slope regimes which is consistent with the measurements. The model however tends to overestimate the magnitude of the outgoing infragravity waves.

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Section: Bichromatic Waves Over a Plane Slopementioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Numerical Modelmentioning

confidence: 99%

Non-Hydrostatic Modelling of Infragravity Waves Using Swash

Rijnsdorp

Smit

Zijlema

2012

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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“…8) means less sensitivity of the resolution results to gauge spacing. Since the wave field produced by SWASH model is based on the mass and momentum conservation equations and involves high nonlinearity [Smit et al, 2013[Smit et al, , 2014; Appendix D of the present paper], it can be concluded that the present theoretical wave model and the resolution procedures have good applicability to nonlinear waves in shallow waters.…”

Section: Casementioning

confidence: 99%

Resolution of Incident and Reflected Components of Nonlinear Regular Waves

Liu

2016

Coastal Engineering Journal

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The method of Lin and Huang [Lin and Huang [2004] "Decomposition of incident and reflected higher harmonic waves using four wave gauges," Coast. Eng. 51(5), 395-406.] (LH) is improved for resolution of incident and reflected strongly nonlinear regular waves in shallow waters with measurements of four stationary wave gauges. For first harmonics, wavenumbers, amplitudes and initial phases are obtained by using a nonlinear least squares method. For higher harmonics, wavenumbers of free and bound modes are determined from linear dispersion relation and multiple of first-harmonic wavenumbers, respectively, and the other unknowns are solved by using a linear least squares method. Auto-correlation function is used to determine fundamental wave period for gaining a good performance of Fourier transform. The efficiency and accuracy of the present method are demonstrated by using artificial data and numerical flume data. It is also demonstrated that the present method is less sensitive to signal noise and gauge spacings. Comparison between the present method and the LH method indicates the necessity of employing nonlinear method in determining fundamental wavenumbers of nonlinear shallow-water waves. Finally, the present method is extended to account for obliquely-incident waves. Sensitivity tests indicate the robustness of the extended method with respect to incident angles. Relative position of gauges in the array for avoiding singularity is suggested.

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“…Filipot and Cheung (2012), Smit et al (2013), and van der Westhuysen (2010) demonstrate potential limitations of the application of the SWAN model to coral reefs related to the reproduction of energy dissipation.…”

Section: Depth-induced Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Parameter sensitivity and uncertainty analysis for a storm surge and wave model

Bastidas¹,

Knighton

Kline³

2016

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. Development and simulation of synthetic hurricane tracks is a common methodology used to estimate hurricane hazards in the absence of empirical coastal surge and wave observations. Such methods typically rely on numerical models to translate stochastically generated hurricane wind and pressure forcing into coastal surge and wave estimates. The model output uncertainty associated with selection of appropriate model parameters must therefore be addressed. The computational overburden of probabilistic surge hazard estimates is exacerbated by the high dimensionality of numerical surge and wave models. We present a model parameter sensitivity analysis of the Delft3D model for the simulation of hazards posed by Hurricane Bob (1991) utilizing three theoretical wind distributions (NWS23, modified Rankine, and Holland). The sensitive model parameters (of 11 total considered) include wind drag, the depth-induced breaking γ B , and the bottom roughness. Several parameters show no sensitivity (threshold depth, eddy viscosity, wave triad parameters, and depth-induced breaking α B ) and can therefore be excluded to reduce the computational overburden of probabilistic surge hazard estimates. The sensitive model parameters also demonstrate a large number of interactions between parameters and a nonlinear model response. While model outputs showed sensitivity to several parameters, the ability of these parameters to act as tuning parameters for calibration is somewhat limited as proper model calibration is strongly reliant on accurate wind and pressure forcing data. A comparison of the model performance with forcings from the different wind models is also presented.

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Depth-induced wave breaking in a non-hydrostatic, near-shore wave model

Cited by 188 publications

References 38 publications

Non-Hydrostatic Modelling of Infragravity Waves Using Swash

Non-Hydrostatic Modelling of Infragravity Waves Using Swash

Resolution of Incident and Reflected Components of Nonlinear Regular Waves

Parameter sensitivity and uncertainty analysis for a storm surge and wave model

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