Development of Bi-directional Grading Method for Uniform Easy-order System -Focused on Blouse for Adult Female-

Abstract

To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group 20~49 years, and the size increments including 155~165 of height section and 79~94 of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.

Investigation of chest girth and height variation affecting other body dimensions for men’s upper body clothes pattern grading

“…On the other hand, the other body measurements but the primary body measurements related to pattern grading are typically used as the dependent variables. (Schofield and LaBat, 2005a;Choi et al, 2009), although in one study, pattern size was set as the dependent variable (Chan et al, 2005). The second method is the variation method in which we use the calculated average difference of each body measurement among primary size groups categorized by certain size intervals.…”