The purposes of this study are to manufacture a flat pattern according to silhouettes through the Surface Flattening process of a triangle by the grid method, and to verify the result to present the method for manufacturing patterns according to designs. Based on the data measured by Size Korea, this study modeled a representative figure ranging from 18 year-old to 24 year-old female, modified the modeled body shapes to a semi-fit silhouette and loose-fit silhouette and did the surface flattening development. We manufactured patterns according to silhouettes and analyzed the area differences between 3Dpiece and flat patterns and the deviation between a muslin scan data manufactured by a flat pattern and modeled data. The result of the surface flattening development by the method can be utilized for manufacturing garment patterns by converting a 3D scan data into 2D pattern and proved to be excellent at piece re-creating because the result did not show a big difference from a modeled silhouette.

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Purpose -The purpose of this paper is to develop a multi-purpose body form that could be used to develop different types of garments by putting body skins with ease on the standard body form. Design/methodology/approach -Free form deformation method was used to generate a virtual model upon the basis of the averaged wire frame. The virtual model was made into a real-life model by a rapid prototyping (RP) process, and then, the standard body form was made by molding the RP. The 3D polygon shell for a body skin got flattened down to 2D patterns and made by a urethane material. Findings -The standard body form developed by using 3D body scan data better represented the characteristics of the body shapes than the previously hand-made ones. In addition, by standardizing the production of the body form itself, it is now possible to make body forms into the standards and be consistent in their qualities. Research limitations/implications -This paper presents the methodology of utilizing 3D body scan data in a garment design, which is possible by incorporating advanced 3D modeling technologies and 3D data of a human body in making body forms. For the mass production of a body skin, it is necessary to develop various special materials simulating soft tissues. Originality/value -The apparel industry can enjoy cost cutting effects by using this multi-purpose body form. A company does not have to spend money in purchasing different sizes and shapes of body forms, let alone saving the spaces to store them once purchased.

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To provide adequate fit for women over a range of sizes, the grading process should reflect their body dimensions. Current methods of creating sized garments are not addressing the need for a good or even an adequate fit for the easy-order system. This study suggests a grading rule allocating system that can improve the appropriateness of clothing for uniform easy-order system. Also, the study proposes a bi-directional grading method subdivided to horizontal and vertical direction. The grading rule allocating system suggested the size increments which improve the fitness of uniform. Using the 5th Size Korea data, the crosstabulation was conducted with 1305 females in the age group 20~49 years, and the size increments including 155~165 of height section and 79~94 of bust section, was selected for easy-order system. Also, the bi-directional grading method subdivided in horizontal and vertical direction was followed by factor analysis based on the circumference and height. And the grading rules were calculated by regression analysis.