Dyeing plants screening: an approach to combine past heritage and present development

Abstract

The paper reports an investigation of the colouring properties of 43 dyeing plants chosen for their widespread use in previous centuries. Colorimetric analysis showed that the principal colours on different fabric supports were yellow and mostly unsaturated. The nature of the support fibres investigated, protein‐ or cellulose‐based, was shown to play an important role in the perceived colours. Phytochemical analysis confirmed that yellow‐orange shades could be attributed to flavonoids and that red colours were due to anthraquinones. Colours from plants that contain anthocyanins varied from blue‐violet through reddish depending on the structure of the anthocyanins in the individual plants. Colour fastness was determined by applying standard test methods. Fastness to light appeared to be inadequate for industrial applications for most samples, but it seems that this could be improved by certain molecular associations. On the other hand, colour fastness to water was satisfactory.

Combined dyeing and antioxidative properties of some plant by-products

“…As previously reported on a dyeing plant screening on wool and cotton (Guinot et al, 2006), correlations between saturation data (C*) on fibres and specific phytochemicals detected in dyeing bath were confirmed in the present study. In fact, the desaturating effect of anthocyanins and their ability to provided darker colours were confirmed.…”

“…Isatis tinctoria, Reseda luteola, Carthamus tinctorius and Rubia tinctorum, were extensively used for textile industries until 1860, when organic chemistry provided synthetic dyes (Andary et al, 1996;Gilbert & Cooke, 2001;Orska-Gawrys et al, 2003). Regarding to the environmental and health impact of chemicals, natural resources were screened at the end of the 20 th century for biological active components (Larson, 1988;Nick et al, 1995;Schmourlo et al, 2005;Katalinic et al, 2006) and natural products as dyes (Angelini, 1999;Jansen & Cardon, 2005;Guinot et al, 2006;www.spindigo.net). Dyeing plants traditionally provided from wild resources (Cardon, 2003) or agricultural crops (Angelini et al, 1997(Angelini et al, , 2003.…”

Extraction of Indigo from Some Isatis species and Dyeing Standardization Using Low-technology Methods

“…All the results presented were at an acceptable light fastness level. The light fastness is also influenced by various factors such as chemical and physical properties of dye, dye concentration, nature of fibers (Cristea and Vilarem 2006;Guinot et al 2006). Padfield and Landi (1996) also stated that indigo was much more light resistant on wool than that of cotton.…”

Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes

“…The natural scale insect, madder and indigoid dyes are also analysed by HPLC (Koren, 1994). TLC chromatography analysis (Guinot et al, 2006) is used to carry out a preliminary evalution of plants containing flavonoids (flavonols, flavones, flavanones, chalcones/ aurones, anthocynanins), hydroxycinnamic acids, tannins and anthraquinones, which are the phylo-compounds (colour compounds) found in the plants. Identification of dyes in historic textiles through chromatographic and spectrophotometric methods as well as by sensitive colour reactions is highlighted (Blanc et al, 2006) and further the retention of carminic acid, indigotin, corcetin, gambogic acid, alizarin flavanoid, anthraquinone and purpurin are also studied (Szostek et al, 2003).…”