Effect of Changes in Knit Structure and Density on the Mechanical and Hand Properties of Weft-Knitted Fabrics for Outerwear

Abstract

This study focuses on the mechanical properties of weft knits for outerwear as a function of knit structure and density and the relationships between hand, structure, and density. Eighteen weft knits are produced with six different structures (1 × 1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties and hand values of the fabrics are measured using the KES-F method. Tensile properties increase for fabrics with a higher density, as do bending and shear properties. Compression values decrease somewhat as knit density increases but differences in compression values are not very large. Surface properties such as softness and smoothness increase with density. Specific findings for tensile properties reveal that the single-pique and the crossmiss interlock can not absorb external stress as much as the 1 × 1 rib and the interlock when stresses are applied in the course direction. Knits with tuck and miss stitches (halfcardigan rib, half-milano rib, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) have better dimensional stability than fabrics with only knit stitches. Testing of primary hand values shows increased stiffness and fullness and softness and decreased smoothness as knit density increases. Total hand value increases with knit density. Double knits show higher total hand values than single knits. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock structures have the highest total hand values. Based on the tests results and an understanding of current market needs for dimensionally stable fabrics with a soft hand, we conclude that knit structures with combined miss and tuck stitches exhibit properties appropriate for outerwear fabrics for the winter season.

Sensory and Instrumental Techniques Evaluating the Effect of Structure Parameters on the Tactile Properties of Knitted Fabrics

“…2006a) and twist (Chattopadhyay and Banerjee 1996; Sahnoun 2002). Furthermore, it has been also observed that weave and knit structure (Choi and Ashdown 2000; Behery 2005; Ben Said et al . 2006b) and fabric density (Choi and Ashdown 2000; Sahnoun 2002) affected the tactile feeling of fabrics.…”

Hysteresis of Tensile load — Strain Route of Knitted Fabrics under Extension and Recovery Processes Estimated by Strain History

“…In their work, the properties were estimated as a structural body and not as a continuum in terms of the displacement of individual yarns and fibers in the fabric by external applied load. In spite of a number of established works [6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15] concerning excellent fabric-deformation theory based on fabric structure mechanics, any theoretical methods of fabrics were out of the framework of their structural changes under extension and recovery processes. Certainly, the analysis of hysteresis under extension and recovery routes is a difficult problem and there is no fundamental concept in any material science fields.…”

The Tactile Sensory Evaluation of Knitted Fabrics: Effect of Some Finishing Treatments

“…Several researchers have studied the effect of process parameters on the fabrics' tactile quality. They have reported that sensory feeling is affected by structure parameters such as material, yarn properties and weaving or knitting conditions (Chattopadhyay and Banerjee 1996; Choi and Ashdown 2000; Sahnoun 2002; Behery 2005; Ben Saïd 2007). In contrast, few studies have examined the influence of finishing treatments on tactile properties of fabrics.…”