This study focuses on the mechanical properties of weft knits for outerwear as a function of knit structure and density and the relationships between hand, structure, and density. Eighteen weft knits are produced with six different structures (1 × 1 rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties and hand values of the fabrics are measured using the KES-F method. Tensile properties increase for fabrics with a higher density, as do bending and shear properties. Compression values decrease somewhat as knit density increases but differences in compression values are not very large. Surface properties such as softness and smoothness increase with density. Specific findings for tensile properties reveal that the single-pique and the crossmiss interlock can not absorb external stress as much as the 1 × 1 rib and the interlock when stresses are applied in the course direction. Knits with tuck and miss stitches (halfcardigan rib, half-milano rib, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) have better dimensional stability than fabrics with only knit stitches. Testing of primary hand values shows increased stiffness and fullness and softness and decreased smoothness as knit density increases. Total hand value increases with knit density. Double knits show higher total hand values than single knits. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock structures have the highest total hand values. Based on the tests results and an understanding of current market needs for dimensionally stable fabrics with a soft hand, we conclude that knit structures with combined miss and tuck stitches exhibit properties appropriate for outerwear fabrics for the winter season.

This research was undertaken to develop work clothing for pear farmers in Naju county, Korea. Pear farming is economically important here, but there has been little effort to develop work clothing to improve worker comfort and efficiency. This study presented special problems to the researcher/designer. The subjects were unable to verbalize their needs and were appreciative and accepting of any prototype design with little critical analysis of its function. The researchers adopted methodologies including field observation and in depth interviews to collect data of expert analysis of the prototypes. Field observation, interviews, and questionnaires were used in Phase 1 of the research to collect data on clothing needs of male and female farmers. Survey results (113 questionnaires, 42 female, 71 male) and a pilot test revealed differences in requirements between females’ and males’ work clothing. Female pear farmers were selected as subjects for the final phases of the study. Four prototype work outfits for female workers (jackets and pants) were developed and tested for fit, mobility, and acceptability in the field. Perception of fit, function, and aesthetics of the four work outfits were evaluated by female pear farmers and expert judges. The outfits for Korean female pear farmer workers developed and tested in this study have the potential to increase field performance and worker comfort. The concepts employed can be used to develop work outfits for workers in other fields, particularly for workers such as the pear farmers who are not skilled at verbalizing their needs or engaging in critical analysis of prototype garments.

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The purpose of this study is to develop the pattern of safety clothes used at flat or mountainous areas and to identify the pattern of safety clothes by conducting experimental evaluation of virtual wear. Three subjects were selected, based on fire fighters' physical constitution. A prototype design for safety clothing was determined after in-depth interviewing of professionals and surveying of Forest service staff and related agency. Wearing test should be carried out in the order of pattern making, virtual and real wearing evaluation. For data analysis, technical statistical values should be obtained by using body measurements of subject, frequency analysis and T-test. The jacket is designed to have a front extension and the entire length of clothing enough for wearer to put on it over ordinary shirts or sweater. The collar of jacket is of round type. Cyber reality enables to identify the movement and activity of virtual fitting model and to find out errors or problems in safety clothing prior to on-the-spot wear test, thus raising the precision level of pattern. There was significant difference between real and virtual fit preference. The results show that the virtual try-on system need the development of a specific style.